It’s geographically considered North Kuta, but Bali’s expat-favored, up-and-coming Canggu/Batu Belig area is thankfully nothing like its over-developed, over-touristed, over-the-top bastard brother to its south; not yet anyways. Rampant construction promises significant change in the coming years, but for now, anyway, this “wedge” between Seminyak and Canggu has a laid-back vibe and agreeable mix of cool Indonesian and Western cafes, restaurants, and boutiques. One might even call it “hip,” but let’s not go there — let’s just say it’s a fun area that’s a short taxi ride from Seminyak beach.
What follows are quick notes from a few noteworthy spots around here, i.e. places that I visited during my three-day stay (in a private villa, of which there are many in this area). In other words, I will be jumping to those uniquely semi-informed types of grand conclusions that can only be created when one eats somewhere once, has one foot massage from one therapist, etc. That’s how it works though, isn’t it? And you can trust me because Perceptive Travel pays me the big bucks for a reason, right? Right.
With that said, this is an appropriate time to plug the great Southeast Asian travel resource that is Travelfish , of which the founders just happen to be Bali residents living in Canggu/Batu Belig. Naturally, you’ll find scads more information on restaurants, cafes, hotels, spas, and more in the Travelfish Bali pages .
Think Pink Nails – Every plush, white-leather lounger in this upscale-ish, “New York City-style nail parlor” was taken when I visited just before noon on a Thursday, and something tells me it’s like that most days. It’s easy to see why: staff is pleasant and professional, those loungers (with the automatic back rollers that hurt so good) are quite comfortable, and the price is right, if not a wee bit more expensive than most others in the ‘hood.
Signature manicures and pedicures, starting at 120K rupiah, were the treatments of choice for the mostly female clientele, plus there are also a full range of hair, nail, and waxing services. Full-body (200K+) and foot massages (150K/1 hour) are available, as well—my foot treatment was that heavenly type of massage when the therapist actually stays focused on what he/she is doing for the full hour, and actually knows what he/she is doing. Give the salon two hours’ advance notice and they’ll pick you up for free if you’re staying in the Canggu or Seminyak area. Jalan Batu Belig 108, +62 361 918 8116, thinkpinknails.com
Nook – By default I’m (rightfully) wary of pan-Asian restaurants in Southeast Asia — you know, Thai salads and Vietnamese appetizers and Malaysian noodles and rice dishes, it’s all essentially the same! — but red lights flash and sirens wail when the menu is pan-world (and the dining room is full of expats and white tourists, myself included). There are of course exceptions to the rule, but in general, when you try to please everybody, the result is doing nothing particularly well. Nook falls squarely into the “pan-world expat favorite” category, but my sixth travel-writer sense tells me Nook is up to snuff.
Located just off Batu Belig, on the corner of an expansive rice paddy surely marked for further development in the not-too-distant future, Nook has the type of friendly, inoffensively trendy look and vibe to it that’s all the rage in Southeast Asia at the moment, and the open-air design affords a welcoming sense of place as you tuck into cuisine that runs the global gamut from pastas and burgers to Indonesian salads and grilled seafood. To wit, specialties include currywurst, braised beef goulash with homemade spaetzle, and fresh tuna sashimi mixed with fresh herbs; the day’s specials were smoked duck and mahi-mahi cordon bleu. Grilled meats and seafood start at 60K; mains are around 40K and up. The mahi-mahi burger and gado-gado are both delicious. Jalan Umalas 1, +62 361 847 5625, facebook.com/Nookbali
Livingstone Cafe & Bakery – Airy and industrially styled with a mix of wood and marble furnishings, Livingstone is one of the busiest upmarket bakeries in the area and certainly one of its coolest and most comfortable. The array of gourmet croissants, danishes, donuts, sliced breads, and baguettes in the takeaway area wouldn’t look out of a place in a Parisian patisserie (check out the loaves of colored breads that look like watermelon), and there’s an appetizing selection of cakes, cupcakes, pies, and other decadent treats displayed in a chilled case. Breakfast platters – think proper Western brunch – look fantastic, though I didn’t try one this time. I’ll always fondly remember Livingstone as the café where I lost my cronut virginity to a sweet little lass dressed in chocolate frosting, powdered sugar, and shaved almonds. Jalan Petitenget 88, +62 361 473 5949, facebook.com/livingstonecafebakery
Sardine – Stylishly walking the line between touristy and trendy, Sardine is one of the area’s fanciest restaurants, which naturally means it’s also one of the priciest. Cost aside, it’s a great choice for a proper night of cocktails and Euro-fusion cuisine, and the setting is gorgeous: the back dining area overlooks a rice paddy, and the thatched-roof dining room features Indonesian-style murals, statues, and oversized decorative umbrellas. It really is quite pretty.
Dinner service includes complimentary baskets of freshly baked breads and an amuse bouche, and the menu is heavy on fresh fish and seafood. Including tax and service, our tab totaled 1,182,000 for four cocktails (try the arak madu or caipirinha), two Bintangs, two appetizers, and two main courses — add and subtract from this baseline as necessary. Staff is perhaps overly attentive at times, but all in all we had a great experience and I’d certainly return. Reservations are strongly recommended, particularly during the weekend. Jalan Petitenget 21, +62 361 843 6111, sardinebali.com.
Warung Cobek – Fresh fruit juices, coffee, and straightforward, well-prepared Indonesian fare like chicken and lamb satay, nasi goreng, and gado-gado (Cobek’s version is heavy on the peanut sauce, and they make it spicy on request) comprise the small menu at this cheerful Batu Belig warung. Grab a wooden stool at the backyard-facing counter in the rear of Cobek’s tiny dining room for spectacular views of a parched, grassy field that maybe once upon a time was a rice paddy. Great for a quick lunch. Jalan Batu Belig 81.
Nyoman’s Beer Garden – A spin-off of Nyoman’s original Nusa Dua outlet, Nyoman’s Beer Garden operated under “soft launch” status when I visited in October 2014, which meant that it was pretty dead, everything looked brand new, and it was way overstaffed. Still, the outdoor patio seating was pleasant enough, and bottles of Bintang were well-priced. For those interested in all-you-can-stuff-down-your-gullet barbecue, such gluttony comes at just 49K here–go nuts, though reviews of Nyoman Nusa Dua’s food are mixed at best. At a minimum, this is a fine spot to grab a few beers on your way elsewhere; if Warung Cobek is closed there’s also a crab/seafood shack next door, though I didn’t try it. Jalan Batu Belig, right next to Warung Cobek.
Warung Jado – This tiny warung has a super-friendly staff and a simple menu centered on hearty combo plates that include rice, fresh greens, and a choice of chicken or pork (or fish, if you ask nicely) for 20K or less. The flavorful homemade sauce served with the meats is wonderful–tangy and with just enough kick to make you break a sweat. There are 1,001 other warungs just like it in Bali, but if you’re on Batu Belig and want authentic Indonesian that’s cheap and cheerful–yo. It’s located just past the intersection with Jalan Petitenget, going towards the sea. Tell ’em I sent you, though they’ll have no idea what the fuck you’re talking about if you do.
