It’s not every day that you’re invited back to a private home as part of a tour but this is an integral part of the Maori Tours Kaikoura half-day tour. Maori Tours Kaikoura is a small company owned by Maurice and Heather Manuwatu of Ngai Tahu descent. If you want a less commercialised and a more boutique cultural tour, this may be a good option.
They’re bang on time collecting us from our accommodation (a good sign).’Uncle Major’ is our driver and Rebecca, our Tour Guide, immediately establishes a great rapport with us. We’re driven by mini coach to one of the Pa sites located on a beautiful scenic part of the Kaikoura Peninsula where a Pōwhiri is delivered by Heather’s niece. This traditional welcome is always made by females.
Rebecca gives a brief history of her ancestors and the land deals that took place between Maori and Pakeha. Hard to believe it’s been only 16 years since settlements were finally made! Be warned, you cannot remain anonymous in this tour. Group participation can’t really be avoided but who would deny themselves a chance to sing and laugh. Believe me, there’s a lot of this!
Songsheets are given out. Rebecca sings a Maori song composed by her sister. She’s tuneful and pitch-perfect but when it’s our turn to sing, it’s a dismal warble. We get better. Next is the Hongi greeting which involves the pressing of noses. Slightly challenging, but I’m open to new cultural experiences. Rebecca chooses me first and I think it goes rather well (briefly lost it’s appeal when one of the Brits almost head-butted me.) Next stop, this lovely reserve at South Bay.
Don’t you just love these beautiful Maori sculptures. This one really blew me away!
Here we are being introduced to flax-weaving and just look at those ‘arty farty’ folk go!
I’m making an absolute hash of it so it’s time to enlist the help of Uncle Major. He takes charge and weaving furiously, creates the perfect flax flower. I hold it up triumphantly, basking in the glory. Uncle Major keeps ‘schtum’, bless him.
Now for the unexpected surprise. Refreshments are usually served in the open at a picnic spot or in a café along the way. Not this tour! We’re invited into the house of Heather’s niece who exudes the type of hospitality Maori are famous for. It’s a humble, welcoming home with traditional carved Maori sculptures and artwork on the walls. We’re served an array of ‘yummies’ – fruit kebabs, pikelets with jam and cream, fudge slice and homemade egg sandwiches (just like mum used to make) and Kawa Kawa tea. Time for some more singing.
This type of hospitality is getting so rare nowadays and it’s a sad and sweet moment of nostalgia for me. No room for melancholy though as we’re caught up in the moment of saying goodbye and head off for a forest walk. This is such a beautiful and informative part of the tour. There’s a gorgeous perfume wafting through the forest and it’s coming from the Matai Tree. It seems to cleanse the whole forest and Michael’s loving it.
So many of these plants have effective healing properties and Maori still use these today for bees stings, cuts, burns, digestion problems and much more. We European Kiwis use little white pills with chemical components…after the quick fix. I can’t help thinking that the Maori answer to good medicine, is the better way.
Small group tours are only as good as it’s Tour-guide and Rebecca’s knowledge of history and plants, plus her infectious enthusiasm, created a positive energy. Her strong mana contributed so much to this tour being an enriching experience for us. E noho ra Rebecca and many blessings.
