The Elm Wildlife Tour Mini bus is on time and everyone’s here, except one small group. They’re finally located in the Dunedin Casino and all eyes are on them as they walk nonchalantly back. Finally, we’re off and our fantastic guide Warren is relieved that all 18 people are now accounted for. Warren has the patience of Job!
First we’re taking a 50 min scenic drive to the Albatross Centre. The late afternoon weather is calm and warm – not so good for spotting Albatross who love soaring through the skies on windy days but it’s perfect for sea lions, fur seals and best of all, the Yellow-Eyed Penguin, the rarest penguin in the world! With views like this, we’re happy to sit back and relax for a while.
Elegant black swans float serenely in the harbour, looking for the fresh water creeks that flow into the sea. Oystercatchers, Kingfishers, Spoonbills and Spur wing Plovers, Shags – they’re all here! I’m beginning to understand why the Otago Peninsula is called the Wildlife Capital of New Zealand.
We arrive at the Albatross Centre on the Taiaroa headland and for the next half hour, Joel takes over and gives an excellent presentation on the Royal Albatross. Having guides with a passion for wildlife, plus an engaging personality, is a winning combination. We’re hanging on to every word – even the latecomers.
The Southern Royal Albatross has a wingspan of over 3 metres and in windy conditions they soar spectacularly around the breeding colony. But although the enclosed viewing platform provides panoramic views, the weather today is too calm. It’s disappointing, but then again, this is not a Zoo. The wildlife here are in their natural environment and will behave according to their rules. In the meantime, we’ll settle for a few Albatross nesting on the breeding colony and that’s reward enough. The best is yet to come!
The bus takes us across to Papanui Beach and first thing on the list are the fur seals. We initially view them from this spectacular and rugged vantage point.
Look at that magnificent angry sea reminding us yet again, that nature is in charge.
Time to move on for a closer look at the fur seals who have draped themselves across the rocks below. They come in all sizes, ages and temperaments. Unlike Sea Lions, who fear no one, Fur Seals are very shy, though a little curious….
…and others, not so much.
Now it’s time to head down to the truly stunningly beautiful Papanui Beach. Just a note of caution here folk, the walks to and from the beach are quite steep and on an unusually warm evening like this, you’ll work up quite a sweat. Sometimes it can be the total opposite – cold and extremely windswept. This is our lucky day.
The Yellow-eyed penguin is the rarest penguin in the world and can only be found right here in New Zealand! The majority of New Zealanders will go through their whole lives without ever seeing one. Today, for the very first time, I did. A precious and beautiful little soul waddled down the track right next to us, wings at right angles for cooling the body:
Ok, I admit it’s poor shot but out of respect for the species, we kept our distance. Still, the moment was thrilling. These little guys are really struggling with maintaining and increasing their numbers. Warren gets an anxious look in his eyes when he tells me that 8 juveniles are missing from last year. Just so you know I’m not kidding about the cuteness factor, here’s a closer look. No one knows why they have yellow eyes.
Photo by Elm Wildlife Tours
A misty haze has descended onto the beach and the air is moist. We start walking towards a large piece of kelp lying just up from the shore…
…um no it’s not. Sea Lions have no fear of humans and as this one seems to be sleeping off a hard day out at sea, we’re able to get quite close.
He’s covered in sand but I can see a large eye that’s only half shut. He may be sleepy but he’s not stupid.
I’ve loved every moment of this part of the tour. Seeing the rarest penguin in the world rushing down the beach to greet another penguin emerging from the surf, was a magical. So we’ll let our sea lion continue with his slumber and say goodbye to this beautiful wildlife reserve. There’ll be sleep in the valley for me tonight.
Happy Travelling.
