Day 12: Welcome to the Sweet Gulf

Day 12: Welcome to the Sweet GulfOur next stop was the Golfo Dulce's eco-friendly Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge, an escape so isolated that it is only accessible by boat. The lodge backs up to Piedras Blancas National Park, which is known to contain a species list nearly identical to nearby Corcovado. As we stepped off the boat and onto the dock, sustainability coordinator Jodi Thomas greeted us as a giant manta ray floated beneath our feet. She had planned to take us on a sustainability tour designed to introduce the property, and educate us on how hotels can both provide for their guests and simultaneously live in harmony with our delicate environment.

Anticipating clouds of mosquitoes, I was pleasantly surprised to find fewer numbers here than in Puerto Jimenez. Enormous trees and a rainbow of flowers lined the path leading to the reception area and restaurant. Along the way I caught sight of a skittish agouti, an adorable relative of the guinea pig. Currasows, gladiator frogs, and an array of birds surrounded us as Jodi explained the new standard of legitimacy in the eco-conscious world: the Certificate for Sustainable Tourism (CST), a country wide movement designed to categorize and differentiate how eligible companies manage their nature resources, preserve local culture, and protect Costa Rican communities.

After a brief discussion, we passed through Nicuesa's solar power center, recycling area, andwet-flowerwater tank. The lodge composts diligently, with waste divided into three groups. My favorite contraption was the solar powered drying room, which is an open air deck capable of drying 39 loads of laundry in as little as three hours. Having lived in this humid country for two years, I know first-hand the frustration that comes with clothes that never fully dry. Plus, from an environmental standpoint, the amount of energy conserved by eliminating the dryer is phenomenal.

The tour was cut short by an intense, hour-long thunderstorm, during which Vincent and I grew impatient and decided that it would be fun to kayak over to the nearby botanical garden in the rain. The hotel staff did not wish to stage a rescue mission, so instead of letting us drown, they offered a ride on one of their speedboats. We accepted, and set off just as the rain began to recede.

Casa de Orquideas is an enormous six-acre garden of hills, primary forest, and exotic plants. I felt like Alice in Wonderland wandering the colorful grounds. Of the 2,000 orchid species thriving in Costa Rica, over 100 are native to the area and found on the property. Unfortunately, there are only two guided tours per week and we had missed them. The self-guided pamphlet spoke of orchids, heliconias, bromeliads, palms, and aroids, but distinguishing one flower or plant from another turned out to be hopeless -- even after reading the packet cover to cover.

Moments after giving up on deciphering the map, I stumbled upon Casa de Orquideas' edible plant section. This area needed no explanation. Grapefruit trees, lemon grass, bananas, mangoes, avocado, peppers, and an assortment of spices thrived in one large, winding section of the park. I resisted the urge to sample; with no authority figure around to give their permission, snacking felt strangely like stealing. I worked my way back to the beach, where Vincent and the boat were waiting to take us back to Nicuesa for an afternoon yoga session.

Kri Blozie yoga was a completely new experience for me. Actually a subset of Kundalini yoga, which focuses on spinal twists and energy alignments, it is slower than typical hatha or vinyasa styles -- and I found the experience revitalizing. Going through unfamiliar stances, along with ones that I had plain forgotten, kindly demanded that my body stretch and open in ways that were unpredictable and amazing.

My teacher, Kristin Marie, shared both my middle name and genuine love for the practice. Originally from Massachusetts, Kristin studied at the Kripalu Yoga Center for one year, prior to further studies in India. To our delight, she combined the class with a bit of light massage, designed to increase circulation and encourage relaxation. The experience was so heavenly that she even convinced Vincent to participate.

We began the lesson in a meditative pose. Kristin came around the class and treated us to a third eye (the place in the middle of the forehead), face, and neck rub to help focus our minds. Funny names for different poses helped us to remember them, my favorites being cleaning the peanut butter jar for wide hip circles; "think Janet Jackson" for the dancing goddess pose; and the love handle annihilator for dancing cobra.

She ended the class with a foot massage, reminding us to remember that Savasana is "a receptivity pose to help us receive the gifts that we just created in our practice." After so much activity these past 12 days, yoga was the perfect remedy for our sore muscles.

Raise A Glass To Adventure — Avex Spirits Giveaway

Update: Congrats to the winners, Marlana H., Carrmen N., Tyler J., Carly Z., and Sharon S. Thanks to everyone who entered.

Whether it’s a cold brew on the river, some wine après-ski, or scotch after a hike — cap off the day’s adventure with a drink.

Raise A Glass To Adventure — Avex Spirits Giveaway

These drinking glasses are made for the outdoor adventurer. The insulated, stainless steel allows you to imbibe in the backcountry. We’ve partnered with Avex to give away one of each glass in their Spirits Line , so no matter what your drink of choice, we’ve got you covered.

Cheers and good luck!

HOW TO WIN

  1. Read our Avex Brew Pint Glass review
  2. Click the “share” icon/button on the top of the review
  3. In the comments section of the review tell us about: ‘an upcoming adventure where you’ll be celebrating (drink in hand) when the day is done.’

That’s it. We’ll pick the best five answers and award the gear.

WHAT’S UP FOR GRABS

  • 1 Avex Brew Pint Glass
  • 1 Avex Sundowner Rocks Glass
  • 1 Avex Claret Wine Glass

RULES: Submit as many responses as you want. Be creative and fun, nothing crude. Winners are domestic USA only. Must be 21 years or older. We will pick the five most interesting, funny, or real reasons as our winners. Winners will each receive 1 brew, 1 rocks, and 1 wine glass. Contest end date: Sept 30, 2015.

Middle America Bargains

Middle America Bargains

In both Europe and North America, big cities are more expensive than small ones. The contrarian traveler knows this well, but the throngs paying top dollar do not. Many of the tourists who are aghast at how much they’re spending in New York City or Paris could do quite well if they traveled a few hours away in any direction. And when you get to the heartland, prices drop even more. Supply and demand, cost of labor, tax rates, and real estate costs all factor in, with the result being that a place like Kansas City—where I spent last week—ends up being quite the bargain.

First of all, you can get most places you want to go in that city off of one main artery, which happens to be served by the MAX express bus system. It connects the three areas where most of the hotels and attractions are and it’s only $1.25. Heck, you can ride three days solid for $8 . You can go from downtown to the Country Club Plaza area (where the two best museums are nearby) and what’s in between. If you’re up for hoofing it, a lot of things to do are clustered together and you can walk from the entertainment district to the Crown Center in about 20 minutes if you want.

There are plenty of quality things to do for free in this town, including visiting one of my favorite museums anywhere, the Nelson-Atkins Museum. of Art . Thanks to some generous wealthy donors and other sources of funding, the newly expanded museum was and continues to be free. The powers that be there take the stance that art should be freely available to the public, just like great literature is at the library. At many museums, the “suggested donation” is really just a misnamed admission fee, but here it really is just suggested. No matter which of the seven entrances you come through, a money box with a slot sits alone, without you having to squeeze past it and without scowling admission people watching to see how much you put in. If you’re flush, drop in a fiver for the cause; if not, no pressure.

Besides, you don’t even have to go inside to see some great works of art. Outside among the lawns and gardens are striking sculptures from a variety of artists and a great collection of Henry Moore’s work. Plus there are four of these shuttlecocks pictured above from Claes Oldenburg, each one weighing 5,500 pounds.

The Hallmark visitor center is free (with, oddly enough, a painting from Winston Churchill), as is the Kemper Contemporary Art Museum . The World War 1 museum is free if you’re in the military. The tourism bureau even has a 33 for free section on its website.

Get the Discover KC Pass —also free—for lots of great coupons and goodies.

You can stay and eat for a reasonable price around here as well, whether it’s grabbing breakfast or lunch from Winstead’s (pictured here), grabbing beers at a pub, or sampling some great barbeque.

I just checked Hotwire for hotels this coming weekend. The 2-star ones started at $29 (not a typo) and a 4-star downtown one with a gym and a pool is going for $104. The wonderful historic Hotel Phillips is $144 on Expedia . A room in a hotel like that would easily top $350 in New York or San Francisco. No hostels there I’m afraid though—you’ll need to hole up in a motel or null if you’re on a backpacker budget.

Camp Food Wins Design Award

International design awards rarely go toward products in the camping category. But last month a prize was bestowed upon dehydrated camp-food company AlpineAire .

A Minneapolis agency called Capsule redid the graphics on the AlpineAire packaging, and within one month the brand saw a 44 percent growth in its just-add-water food sales.

Camp Food Wins Design Award
Award-winning new look

HOW magazine , a publication for graphic and interactive designers, gave the new AlpineAire look one of its Merit nods in its International Design Awards competition.

It won, HOW noted, because of a “fresh and sophisticated” design that used a new color palette, photography style, and typeface.

Camp Food Wins Design Award
The old AlpineAire package design

More useful to the common camper, Capsule built a design structure on the front of the meal packaging to get at-a-glance information about what’s inside. This includes meal type, calories, protein, content weight, vegetarian or meat, and more.

On the side of the package is a ruler for measuring water to add. On back, instructions on preparation come in four or five steps.

Camp Food Wins Design Award
Easy to read: A ruler on the side, nutritional info on front

Capsule calls all of these touches “navigational cues,” noting the design was an effort to improve “the experience in the [store] aisle and on the trail.”

The sleek new look is accompanied by good flavor. We tested the brand’s food last summer on trips as well as in the kitchen and were impressed. See our full review, “Just Add Water… ‘AlpineAire’ Camp Food Test.”

Phnom Penh is NOT a Scary Place!

Phnom Penh is NOT a Scary Place!

I love Phnom Penh. I’ve been twice on this trip so far, and I keep feeling the urge to return again and again.

Before arriving in Phnom Penh, I had the image of it as this dirty, dangerous city in the middle of an extremely poor country, with trash everywhere, crime on every corner, flooded streets, yet somehow, many KFCs. (I blame an episode of Will & Grace for the latter.)

Then I got to Phnom Penh and realized just how skewed my image was. Sure, it’s not the cleanest place in the world, but it’s surprisingly laid-back, friendly, and relaxing. Not to mention one of the safest cities in Southeast Asia. (And yes, there are many KFCs.)

I took a video of my tuk-tuk ride through town to show people that Phnom Penh isn’t as scary as you think it is.

Check it out!

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ki6di_dlQB4&w=560&h=349]

Landlocked Subs, the Secret Cistern, and an Empty Capital City

Landlocked Subs, the Secret Cistern, and an Empty Capital City

Yes indeed, it’s time for the March/April issue of Perceptive Travel . We’ve got another odd assortment of features you won’t find anywhere else, offbeat travel tales from wandering book authors, with a side helping of book reviews and world music rundowns.

The landlocked subs are just one historic oddity of Lake Issyk–Kul in Kyrgyzstan . (Try saying that place five times fast without sounding like you’re trying to hock a loogey.) Naked Olympics author Tony Perrottet checks out the secret cistern of Mycenae and sleeps in the seemingly unchanged 1876 bed of a famous architect in Agamemnon’s Fan Club . Robert Reid comes back from researching a Burma guidebook to report on that country’s strangely empty capital city of Naypyidaw .

Another guidebook author, Michael Buckley, takes us through the watery and inland Karst landscapes of Vietnam . The author of several books on the Caribbean gives us a tour of local church life in the tropics .

Sign up for the newsletter so you can win some goodies and get notified when a new issue is out. We’ll be running a new photo contest in April, with giveaways of travel gear, books, and more.

A Frog Named Lady Gaga: Australia Day in Hanoi

Today is Australia Day — and I’d love to wish a very happy Australia Day to my beloved Australian readers.

This time last year, I was in Hanoi, Vietnam, and celebrated Australia Day for the first time…in a truly unique fashion.

I was staying at the excellent Hanoi Backpackers , home to one of the best hostel happy hours in the world. At 5:00 PM every night, it feels like every backpacker in the city comes up to the Hanoi Backpackers bar.  In this city, where you can find bia hoi (cheap Vietnamese beer) for 12 cents a glass, Hanoi Backpackers actually gives out beer for free on Sundays!

A few days after arriving in Hanoi, I got very sick .  After four days of staying in bed and eating nothing but baguettes and bananas from the hostel kitchen, I decided it was time to be a human again.  I dragged myself upstairs to the bar, determined to socialize.  It was Australia Day, and I heard there would be a celebration.

I got to the top and saw this:

A Frog Named Lady Gaga: Australia Day in Hanoi

Have I mentioned that Hanoi Backpackers is owned by Australians?

Hoo boy.

Everyone, no matter what nationality they were, was covered in Australian flag tattoos.  The barbecue was fired up, serving burgers that should have been far too delicious for being made in Vietnam, and the beer was flowing!

A Frog Named Lady Gaga: Australia Day in Hanoi

And I got into the spirit! I love Australians.  All the Australians I’ve met have been incredibly welcoming and friendly, so hilarious, and always up for a beer.  They also love to travel, and you’ll probably find at least one Australian anywhere you go around the globe.

Most of the people up there that day were Australian.  I was wrapped up in the Australian flag and cheering the country’s existence in no time.

A Frog Named Lady Gaga: Australia Day in Hanoi

And then it became time for frog racing. Yes, the official event of Australia Day at Hanoi Backpackers was racing frogs.

The frogs were put in a circle and the first one to jump out would be the winner.

The frogs had numbers on them, but that wasn’t enough — we had to name them as well. Most of the Australian guys had named the frogs after themselves, but they came up with a few unique ones…

A Frog Named Lady Gaga: Australia Day in Hanoi

Yep.  We had a frog named Lady Gaga.

With that, I immediately knew who I was rooting for.

A Frog Named Lady Gaga: Australia Day in Hanoi

And they were off!

“JUMP, LADY GAGA!” I yelled.  “YOU CAN DO IT!  JUST DANCE!  LET THE MUSIC PLAY!”

Lady Gaga stayed still, as did most of the frogs.

“COME ON, LADY GAGA!”

Lady Gaga didn’t even come close.

But she was still my froggie.

Out of all the country celebrations I’ve seen around the world, my bizarre Australia Day in Hanoi remains one that I’ll always remember. Tattoos, beer, frogs, and all.

Electronics Prices Vary Widely

Many long-term travelers set off assuming that cheap countries are going to have cheap goods across the board. Things produced locally will be a bargain, but imported goods can be shockingly expensive when you are used to the hyper-efficient, competitive, free-trade environment of the United States. Ask any New Yorker what most of the tourists in town are doing these days—shopping for electronics! With the dollar weak and the U.S. already one of the best spots for buying anything that plugs in or recharges, a lot of travelers are finding they can cover the cost of a plane ticket by making a shopping trip across the ocean.

Every week or two the Wall Street Journal runs an “Arbitrage” section where they compare the cost of a single item in a variety of countries where they have a bureau. Too many times it’s focused on prices in luxury hotels (a $7 glass of orange juice in Jakarta—are you kidding me?) But they recently ran one on a Sony DSC-T10 digital camera. You can pick one of these up for around $300 to $350 in New York City depending on where you shop. Here’s what their reporters say it will cost you in other places. Note that these prices have almost no correlation to how rich/poor a place is: it’s mainly a reflection of trade policies and retail/distribution practices.

Seoul – $312

Shanghai – $312

Tokyo – $332

Sydney – $390

Bangkok – $396

Jakarta – $403

London – $469

Paris – $475

Rome – $526

Manila – $600
[photo from PreviewGadgets]

Outfitters liken Salmon River trails to disaster area

Outfitters liken Salmon River trails to disaster area
Early morning fall underbrush is reflected along the mountainsides of Pistol Creek on the Middle Fork of the Salmon River Sept. 15, 2008. The area was devastated by fire in the summer of 2000, leavng smolding pines and incinerated ash which covered the forest floor. J. BART RAYNIAK The Spokesman-Review
(J. Bart Rayniak)

WILDERNESS -- Horse packers fed up with the lack of trail maintenance and the frequency of wildfire in Idaho’s largest wilderness area are asking legislators to declare it a natural resource disaster area.  The Idaho Legislature is likely to discuss a resolution on this issue on Thursday, reports Eric Barker of the Lewiston Tribune.

House Joint Memorial No. 1 seeks disaster status for the pristine Frank Church-River of No Return Wilderness Area. Sponsored by Rep. Lenore Barrett of Challis and Rep. Marcus Gibbs of Grace — and authored by the Salmon Chapter of the Back Country Horsemen of Idaho — the resolution represents a shot across the bow of the U.S. Forest Service, which manages the 2.3 million-acre area in the mountainous heart of the state.

Click "continue reading" for more details from Barkers report.

For years the group has been asking district rangers, forest supervisors and regional foresters to increase trail work in the wilderness area.

Now, members are hoping to get the attention of Forest Service Chief Tom Tidwell and U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsack.

“We came to the conclusion we have been working on the wrong end of the government mule, that we somehow need to get the head’s attention and a joint memorial from the Idaho Legislature would be a good way to start,”

said John Burns, a retired forest supervisor from Carmen and a former Idaho Fish and Game commissioner.

The agency has fallen behind schedule in its annual effort to open and maintain the 2,500 miles of trails that weave over and through the area’s tall granite peaks, lush meadows and steep river canyons.

Exacerbating the problem are wildfires that weaken trees and make them prone to falling in the years, and even decades, after the flames have died.

Those fires have been growing in size and intensity over the years and that trend, driven by climate change, is expected to continue. The agency is increasingly allowing fire to play a natural role in backcountry areas in an effort to control costs, improve wildlife habitat and place firefighting priority in more populated areas. That is making it even more difficult for the agency, with shrinking budgets, to keep up trail work across the country.

But Burns and Phil Ryan, a public lands coordinator for the group, point out that the Central Idaho Wilderness Act directs the agency to open trails annually.

“I feel fairly safe in saying this is the only wilderness area in the system that has that requirement,” Burns said.

The Back Country Horsemen of Idaho is a longtime ally and partner of the agency and annually works with it and other non-governmental organizations to do volunteer trail work to address the problem.

The Idaho Chapter of the Wilderness Society shares the group’s concern over the lack of trail work and funding.

“It’s no secret the agency hasn’t been able to keep up with deadfall on trails and bridges washing out. Nobody is disputing that,” said Craig Gehrke of The Wilderness Society at Boise.

But harsh language in the resolution that describes fire as destructive force instead of a natural process, and hints chain saw use might be needed to erase the trail maintenance backlog, is alienating him and other environmentalists.

“The Frank Church Wilderness has some of the best wildlife habitat, water quality and fish habitat in the Lower 48 states. Spreading wild misinformation about wilderness and designating one of Idaho’s icons a ‘disaster area’ is not the right way fix the trails,” Gehrke said. “By spreading myths about wilderness, this resolution could actually hurt important efforts to increase trails funding and broaden much-needed partnerships.”

Ryan said he is aware the resolution is ruffling feathers.

“I know Craig Gehrke thinks this is an anti-wilderness bill but I don’t look at it that way. I Look at it as getting the Forest Service to do their job. Maybe we can stir the pot enough to get it done.”

The House Resource and Conservation Committee will consider the resolution Thursday.


Costa Rica's wildlife sanctuaries: filled to the brim

Tubby the paca escaped into a hardware store in Uvita. He's one of the world's largest rodents. Like an oversized guinea-pig with white spots, Tubby scurried between aisles of wrenches, hammers and screws looking for a dark hole to hide. That's when the store owner called in Mike Graeber to catch him.

Now Tubby spends most of his day sleeping in his enclosure at the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary, a non-profit wildlife rescue center in the Costa Rica's Central Pacific area. Tubby is just one of 47 animals living in the sanctuary, each with its own story.

Ruby, the scarlet macaw, waddles across the floor of her enclosure, her tail feathers plucked. Mike, owner and caretaker at the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary, figured her previous owner plucked the feathers, which go for $200 to $300 a piece, before abandoning her on the side of the road. Mike found Ruby fighting for her life against a pair of stray dogs, unable to fly away because of her missing tail feathers.

Ruby is one of many abandoned animals that's come Costa Rican animal shelters in recent months due in part to new laws and fines - up to $2,000 - for owning exotic pets. Concurrently, Costa Rica has decided to close down its zoos and send some 400 animals to shelters for rehabilitation and release putting stress on sanctuaries like the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary to accept more animals, when they're already at capacity.

The Ministry of Environment, Energy & Ocean (MINAE) is in charge of finding shelters for animals from the closing zoos, illegal animal trade and drug busts. MINAE places these animals in non-profit animal sanctuaries and rescue centers like the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary.  Nearly every day Mike gets requests to take new animals, he said. Already, MINAE has asked to take on a Puma from a San Jose zoo, but Mike said he had to decline. He just doesn't have the space.

Mike moved to Costa Rica in 2005. Though he's spent 40 years volunteering at wildlife shelters in the U.S., he didn't expect he'd start his own shelter in Costa Rica, Mike said. He wanted to sit on the beach and sell banana bread. And that's what he did. For years, Mike, known in beachside town of Dominical as "Banana Bread Mike", sat in a hammock sold snacks to locals and tourists.

It didn't take long though before he got restless. Mike couldn't help but notice the number of stray dogs wandering around Dominical Beach. After adopting half a dozen dogs, he realized he needed to do more so he started a non-profit organization to spay and neuter local animals called DAWG, Domestic Animal Welfare Group. Over the years, the program has grown to help tourists adopt animals in Costa Rica and   take the pets back to the U.S. The organization now spays or neuters 300 animals per year and has found homes for 400 animals in the last two years.

But Mike's plans have only gotten bigger. He has since left DAWG and founded the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary with the help of business partner Dannia Segura Jiménez and a group of American investors. Finished in February, Mike built the sanctuary by hand applying years of construction experience from his career in the U.S.

Today, the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary's mission is to rehabilitate and release as many animals as possible. Since opening in February, the sanctuary has released four owls, nine parrots, a hawk and a deer.

But many of the animals that come in to the shelter can't be released. Some, like Sofia, a young agouti who loves to be scratched behind her ears, are too domesticated to ever make it in the wild on their own. Others, like Pedro, a young white-faced monkey caught during a drug bust, are evidence in court cases and must remain at the sanctuary until the case is finished.

Now Mike's running a 60-day fund-raising drive to make improvements on the shelter. He wants to expand the sanctuary with larger enclosures, a nursery and more equipment for veterinary care.

A few days after catching Tubby in the hardware store, Mike had a visitor to the shelter. He pulled up in a truck, hunting dogs yapping wildly in its bed. The hunter claimed he owned Tubby and demanded Mike to give it back to him. Mike declined. He knew that Tubby would likely end up on a dinner table if he returned the paca to the hunter. Instead, Mike offered to call the police. The hunter relented and left empty-handed. Tubby, none the wiser, slept the day away in the warmth of his den at the Osa Mountain Wildlife Sanctuary.

Great Trips for First-Time Solo Female Travelers

If you’re a girl who hasn’t traveled alone before, you might have no idea where to begin!  That’s okay — there are so many options for you.

The ideal first solo trip for female travelers is easy, fun, and low-stress.  Give yourself some structure, but don’t plan out every minute of every day.  You don’t know what kind of solo traveler you are until you get out and do it, so plan for anything!Great Trips for First-Time Solo Female Travelers

For your very first solo trip, choose a popular destination with good travel infrastructure.  Once you master your first trip — and you will master it! — feel free to move on to more challenging destinations.

Here are three kinds of trips that are perfect for first-time solo female travelers.

Group Outdoor Adventure

Great Trips for First-Time Solo Female Travelers

Image: fank209

Perfect for: high-energy girls who like the outdoors, love meeting new people, and live for adrenaline rushes!

If you think that spending lots of money just to lie on a beach somewhere is, well, a bit of a waste, then an active vacation is for you!  Joining a group is often the only way to do epic treks like the Inca Trail, and it’s one of the easiest ways to travel solo.

There’s nothing like the feeling of diving into a waterfall in the heart of the rainforest, or sandboarding at lightning speed, carving through dunes in the desert.  Plus, the pictures will be fantastic.

Best of all, when you travel with a group, it’s easy to meet people who love the outdoors as much as you do!  You’ll have new friends within an hour, so you won’t have to worry about spending all your time alone.  Just make sure you find a program that gives you time to explore on your own as well!

Suggestions: Try hiking the Inca Trail in Peru, arriving at Machu Picchu by sunrise.  Hike, zipline and surf your way through Costa Rica.  On New Zealand’s South Island, climb glaciers and bungee jump into rivers!

Sexy City Break

Great Trips for First-Time Solo Female Travelers

Image: Stephan Geyer

Perfect for: girls who love urban excitement: shopping, museums, restaurants and dancing till dawn!

You’ve always wanted to visit Barcelona.  Or Berlin.  Or Chicago.  Why wait for someone to share your interest when you could go on your own?

When you travel to a city on your own, every decision is left up to you.  Spend your days exploring every neighborhood, go see quirky local bands, dine on local specialties, shop until you drop.  Change your plans on a whim.  Or just sit back in a cafe and try to pass as a local!

Want to meet friends?  Consider meeting up with the local Couchsurfing community.  Most cities’ Couchsurfing communities plan frequent events and get-togethers! I met up with Couchsurfers nearly every day in Buenos Aires , and it was, by far, the best thing I did on that trip.

Suggestions: Anywhere in Europe! Paris, Rome, and Amsterdam were made for a trip like this. Buenos Aires is a spectacular introduction to South America.  Stateside, why not try San Francisco or Miami?

Skill-Learning Solo Sojourn

Great Trips for First-Time Solo Female Travelers

Image: San Diego Shooter

Perfect for: girls who want to return from their trip with some brag-worthy skills to show off to their friends!

If you’re a midwesterner who’s always dreamed of surfing, why not take the plunge and learn?  From Bali to Panama and beyond, surf camps around the world are perfect for solo travelers!

And it doesn’t have to be a physical activity.  You could learn an artistic skill, a culinary skill, or even volunteer.  Sign up for a course, preferably early in your trip.  This way, you’ll meet friends from the course and get to know the surrounding area so you can explore on your own afterward!

This kind of trip rocks for solo female travelers because you get to choose an activity that interests you and you alone, without catering to the needs of your travel companion.

Suggestions: Learn to cook in Tuscany or Chiang Mai, Thailand.  Get your PADI diving certification in Roatan, Honduras, or the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.  And you can learn flamenco dancing in the heart of northeastern Spain or tango in its birthplace, Buenos Aires!

This first solo trip will give you confidence like you’ve never known before.  For your next solo trip, the sky’s the limit!

Did you enjoy this post? Subscribe to my RSS feed! I’m traveling Southeast Asia alone from October 2010 through May 2011 and will be sharing my adventures and solo travel tips along the way!

Bike Stand Test

By STEPHEN REGENOLD

The Gear Junkie is also a bit of a bike junkie. As of this moment, my one-car city garage is crammed with six bikes, two pull-behind kid trailers, a tag-along attachment, and various child bike seats. Our van is parked on the street. The lawnmower? It’s been relegated to the backyard and stowed under a tarp.

Amid this chaos, Feedback Sports’ Pro-Elite Repair Stand has assisted me this spring and summer to manage my fleet of two-wheelers. From my fixed-gear to my mountain bike, the Feedback Sports ( www.feedbacksports.com ) stand has steadied and held high bike after bike as I’ve lubed, tightened, adjusted and tweaked chains, pedals, handlebars, gears, brakes, and seats.

Bike Stand Test
Pro-Elite Repair Stand

A bike stand is a luxury item for most cyclists. Its essential duty — steadying a bike held up a few inches off the ground — can be accomplished via ad hoc systems involving clamps and two-by-four boards. Or, most riders I know simply deal with maintenance by leaning their ride against a wall.

But a stand offers a new level of mechanical access. Clamped into a stand like the Pro-Elite, which retails for $239, you can crank pedals, spin wheels, and turn the levitating bike frame around to approach spokes and components from all angles.

The Pro-Elite, touted as a “go-to repair stand for mechanics on the road,” has an easy-to-use quick-release clamp with rubber jaws. Lift your bike into the stand and ratchet it tight — the bike won’t budge.

Bike Stand Test
Pro-Elite stand, packed up

Height adjusts with the telescoping main shaft from about 40 to 70 inches. Tripod legs make it stable on gravel or uneven surfaces.

For moving the stand around or packing it for a trip, the entire unit folds into a small and manageable size — no tools required. It weighs about 12 pounds packed up.

For me, a clumsy bike mechanic at best, the Feedback stand has made manipulating components, swapping pedals, and adjusting brakes an easier task. On the driveway outside my crammed garage, the stand adds some order to my otherwise chaotic bike life.

—Stephen Regenold is founder and editor of www.wordpress.com .

All Hail the Titanium Spork!

By STEPHEN REGENOLD

Promising to add “a bit of civilization to the wild,” the Light My Fire Titanium Spork is a unique spoon-fork-knife utensil that gives eaters most all the necessary elements to scoop, stab, cut, and lift virtually all forms of food you might encounter during a trip outdoors.

I have used the Titanium Spork for a couple years now, and its stout, balanced design not only gets the job done, but its swooped handle and ergonomic contours feel balanced and capable in the hand.

All Hail the Titanium Spork!
‘Titanium Spork’ by Light My Fire

I am apparently not the only one taken with the design. Distributed by Industrial Revolution of Redmond, Wash., the ti spork has been on sale since 2005. It’s been a successful product for the company, which reportedly sold nearly 1 million in its first couple years of production (plastic and titanium versions).

The design is unique. Normal sporks offer a semi-usable spoon-with-stubby-tines design. The Light My Fire model has the requisite “spork parts” — spoon and fork tines — but unlike a traditional spork, it puts one utensil head on either end, granting full utensil usage as you can switch hit during a meal.

All Hail the Titanium Spork!
Close-up: Tines of the spork; notice outside serrated edge

Bonus: The ti spork has a small serrated edge on the outside fork tine. You can cut food into manageable bites with this edge, adding perhaps a rare flare of civility to a backcountry feast.

The titanium used to make this spork is touted by the company to have “high biocompatibility.” That means it is non-toxic, hypoallergenic, non-corrosive, and non-magnetic.

The ti spork costs $12 on Amazon.com and other online stores. It is short, stout, and durable, though more than capable for most any culinary challenge. Best part: The spork weighs a scant 17 grams, causing even the most crusty ultra-lighters (like me!) to consider “hauling” a spork along on a trip next time instead of going caveman as usual and eating with bare hands.

—Stephen Regenold is founder and editor of www.wordpress.com . A version of this post ran originally on Gear Junkie’s blog on VentureThere.com , a USA Today property.

Forest roads gated to protect grizzlies opening in Idaho Panhandle

Forest roads gated to protect grizzlies opening in Idaho Panhandle
Grizzly bear. (Jaimie Johnson)

PUBLIC LANDS -- Forest road access to wood cutters and hunters will be increasing starting next week as the Idaho Panhandle National Forests begin opening forest roads that have been gated to help provide security for grizzly bears.

Gates will be opened starting Nov 16 in the Selkirk Mountains and starting Dec. 1 in the Purcell and Cabinet Mountains of the forests’ North (Kaniksu) Zone.

"The difference in opening dates between the two areas is based on local research findings and provides additional habitat security for grizzly bears that have not yet denned," said Jason Kirchner, forest spokesman in Coeur d'Alene. "Gates will be opened as weather conditions and personnel availability allow."

Some roads will continue to be closed to motorized vehicle traffic as shown on the forest's latest Motor Vehicle Use Map (MVUM). The maps are available at forest offices.


Carabiner Has Built-In ‘Hook’

Carabiner Has Built-In ‘Hook’

Combine a carabiner and a coat hanger and you might get the Qlipter . This to-be-launched product is a basic carabiner equipped with a hook.

You fold the hook out to hang it on a branch or anything else outside. Then you can clip a backpack or other item to the ‘biner, giving a solid hanging place to organize gear, grab food, or just simply keep your stuff off the ground.

It has a 50-pound weight limit and is meant only for hanging small or medium size objects. Do not use it in climbing situations.

I tested the Qlipter out and the unit worked slick — the carabiner is a normal pear-shape ‘biner, and the integrated hook stays in place when not needed and folds out easily.

Carabiner Has Built-In ‘Hook’
Hang up bikes or gear

You hook the arm over a branch to secure. Or, a rubbery end point on the hook lets it “stick” to an object like a shelf. The arm also rotates 360 degrees to make hanging anything up easier.

The company is currently seeking funding on Kickstarter , and it has already surpassed its goal. A $20 pledge gets you a Qlipter when they ship this summer.

See more on the Qlipter here and support the project if you’re into this new type of accessory for the home or the outdoors.

—Stephen Regenold

tagged: #crowdfunding

WorldHum Interviews Don George at Lonely Planet

It seems that Lonely Planet global travel editor Don George is about to leave the building. That’s a shame, as he has lorded over some fine anthologies, including the Tales From Nowhere book reviewed in this month’s Perceptive Travel.

Unfortunately, there have also been a few stinkers on his watch (like the perplexing Blue List book, for starters), which this interview in World Hum may shed some light on:

“Then half a year ago my job morphed into a role that was much more closely tied to directly generating revenues through specific projects. I felt that the new role wasn’t engaging my core passions and talents as the old role had, and so this seemed a good time to set myself soaring.”

This doesn’t bode well for the good/bad ratio of future Lonely Planet projects since Don is widely respected and probably has the best Rolodex of great travel writers of anyone on the globe. Time will tell…

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’

From ocean shores in Mexico to glaciers in Alaska, photos and essays from the online publication Bunyan Velo take readers on a virtual bike tour around the world.

We met up with founder and editor Lucas Winzenburg. He was fresh off the trail of his own month-long tour across Europe. Winzenburg offered GearJunkie an inside look via the photos below, shot by adventurers around the world who seek out the simple pleasures of traveling long distances by bike.
—Amy Oberbroeckling

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
The beaches of Baja California Sur; photo by Alex Dunn

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Cover shot

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Camp for the night near Homer, Alaska; photo by Glenn Charles, thetravelingvagabond.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Scenes from Tibet; photo by Joe Cruz, joecruz.wordpress.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Solitude along a dirt trail in Chile; photo by Joe Cruz, joecruz.wordpress.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Pedaling the Marin Headlands, California; photo by Cass Gilbert, whileoutriding.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
The quietude of night in the Cascade Range, Oregon; photo by Erik Jensen, bikenoir.blogspot.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Miles of dirt trails along Oregon’s Coast Range; photo by Donnie Kolb, velodirt.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Winding roads of Oregon’s Coast Range; photo by Donnie Kolb, velodirt.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Respite from the cold in a lookout tower in the Northern Rockies; photo by Casey Greene, greenecasey.blogspot.com

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
The dirt roads of Rwanda, Africa; photo by Derek McIntire, horizonsoblivious.org

Bike Tour Around the World Vicariously with ‘Bunyan Velo’
Camp site in the Indian Himalayas; photo by Daniel Molloy, pushingthepedals.com

Artificial Gills To Breathe Underwater: A Million Dollar Scam?

The ability to breathe underwater unencumbered by heavy equipment is a common dream. Unfortunately, it also appears to be a pipe-dream that has hundreds of hopeful underwater explorers shelling out big bucks ($700,000 in just a few days) for a product of dubious design, and the number is growing.

Artificial Gills To Breathe Underwater: A Million Dollar Scam?

Currently raising funds on Indiegogo, the Triton claims to be the world’s first “artificial gills rebreather,” a concept that has eluded the world’s top scientists and military contractors for years. If true, it would revolutionize snorkeling and recreational diving overnight.

Experts say that the Triton’s claims are bold, and implausible, and the company’s lack of third-party verification or industry experience raises red flags.

We reached out by email to Triton (the company has no phone number or address listed on its website , Facebook page , or Indiegogo campaign ; red flag number one). The company has not responded to our request for information.

We also spoke with several experts — Ph.Ds at Divers Alert Network and Deep Sea News, scuba designers, and researchers in human physiology.

The consensus: The Triton faces limitations in battery design, high-pressure storage, and filtration that will likely not be overcome for decades.

We’d love for this product to be real. It would change shallow diving forever. If it turns out to be effective, we’ll be eating crow and lining up to buy one after the company claims they’ll be delivered in Dec. 2016 (or as soon as a third party verifies they really work as promised). But for now, we, and many others, are skeptical.

Why ‘Triton’ Can’t Work As Claimed

To understand the difficulty of extracting air from water, you need to go back to middle school chemistry. Water in lakes, oceans, and pools contains air from the atmosphere in solution.

To remove solutions from water while underwater is not an easy task. But we’ll give this startup the benefit of the doubt and allow that they’ve come up with a revolutionary technology that removes 100 percent of dissolved oxygen from water.

Artificial Gills To Breathe Underwater: A Million Dollar Scam?
To function in optimal conditions, the Triton would have to pump between 45 and 90 liters of water through this device each minute

Even if this is true (top scientists have struggled to do this for decades ), the device will still have to perfectly remove the oxygen from between 46 and 90 or more liters (my calculations) of water every minute to provide enough oxygen for a human to metabolize at rest. With any exertion, that number goes up dramatically. But we’ll settle with “at rest” for starters, because even that would be a world-changing revolution in technology.

Oxygen Extraction From Water Isn’t Easy

Using a standardized table of oxygen solubility, one can derive that fresh water at sea level contains about 9.1 mg/L of oxygen at room temperature (68º F). That’s .0091 grams.

A human adult uses around (conservatively) 617 grams of oxygen per day at rest. That breaks down to .42 grams per minute. This number is highly variable depending on individual metabolism, size, exertion, and more.

But for this scenario, if you divide .42 by .0091 you get about 46.1. That’s how many liters of water you’d need to process per minute to provide enough oxygen to support a person at rest.

Needed: Huge Pump, High-Pressure Storage, Revolutionary Battery

My numbers are conservative. Others have debunked the plausibility of this contraption by a much larger margin.

Dr. Alistair Dove , the former associate editor of Deep Sea News, estimated that it would require 90 liters of water per minute — similar to a 1/4 horsepower sump pump — to produce enough oxygen to breathe.

And this is all supposed to be done by a small lithium-ion battery sucking water through a plastic device the size of a snorkel. Plus, that small device also houses a compressor and air tank to store breathing air, and some kind of regulator (which in scuba gear costs over the price of the Triton alone) to change the high-pressure stored air to a breathable pressure.

Artificial Gills To Breathe Underwater: A Million Dollar Scam?

This remarkable technology — stuff that has never been done at remotely this scale, and that has never been tested or reviewed by any third party — can be yours for just $300 if you believe the pitch.

For reference, a scuba regulator will cost you $400 or more, not including tanks. An entry-level rebreather weighs more than 40 pounds and will cost you $6,000.

Three Major Problems

Dr. Neal Pollock, a research associate at the Center for Hyperbaric Medicine and Environmental Physiology at Duke University Medical Center , and the research director for Divers Alert Network , explained three significant barriers to the artificial “gills” concept.

  1. Extraction Of Oxygen: “You have to both run a lot of water through your product, and have a means to separate it,” Pollock said. “They have some kind of filter system they say works with a membrane. But what entices the oxygen to go through that membrane? The explanation is not compelling.”
  2. Storage: “We breath volumetrically. At the surface, the volume of a breath would be about two liters while exercising (or about .5 liters at rest). So the system needs a reservoir to hold the compressed air. They are claiming this tiny reservoir will hold it, and it will take a very powerful pump.”
  3. Delivery (metering): Somehow, this compressed air needs to be metered; a job that in scuba gear is accomplished by a regulator. At depths beyond 130 feet, or for prolonged dives, a rebreather that mixes oxygen with other gasses like helium and nitrogen is used. That’s because deeper than 15 feet, pure oxygen becomes toxic, so if an untrained user (anyone can buy this product) ventures too deep, they could be poisoned.

“I don’t believe they have a chance of fitting all this into a small device,” Pollock said.

A Lot Of Red Flags

A small apparatus for underwater breathing and the easy filtration of oxygen from water would be revolutionary in many regards. So would a battery small and powerful enough to power this device.

Yet the brand has not revealed the product to any third party journalists or scientists that we know of. The only visual evidence of it working are videos produced by the company.

Artificial Gills To Breathe Underwater: A Million Dollar Scam?

This is a huge red flag. In any major technology release, legitimate companies are quick to share their developments once patented, and they will do so with great fanfare.

Triton’s claims are almost certainly billion-dollar ideas. Yet they are trying to crowd-source the funding.

“If they have figured out a battery so powerful to do all this, there are a lot of people who would pay a lot of money for it,” Pollock said.

If this really worked, investors would be clamoring to get onboard. No crowd-funding campaign would be needed.

Excited Consumers

The Triton has created a big buzz. Consumers are ready to swim underwater with a simple and cheap device. So far, 1,850 people have contributed about $700,000 to the campaign.

While there are many excited comments (“This is such awesome technology guys, good spirit and good luck!!”), many supporters have expressed some skepticism, noting some publications poking holes in the product .

Triton’s responses do not answer any of the fundamental questions surrounding the technology.

When one commenter suggests Triton allow an independent media review, the brand responds as follows:

“So for your question yes we are going to release new videos of Triton, we will start working on it as soon as we can, we have a tight schedule right now but we have that in our timeline and we will post it on Indiegogo and our Facebook page.”

Little Recourse For Consumers Or Backers

Indiegogo and other fundraising platforms have seen many failed products , and a fair number of borderline scams over the years.

The problem is that, once consumers commit money to supporting the project, there is no way out. Some companies declare bankruptcy in the wake of a failed product. Others simply disappear, or deliver a product that falls far short of expectations.

Generally, there is no recourse for consumers duped by the slick videos lacking substance in the crowd funding world. Tread with caution in fund-raising, as it’s a wild and little-regulated place.

A Potentially Dangerous Device

Divers are required to take certified courses in the use of scuba gear and carry this certification to rent or buy equipment. But the sale of the Triton is could be dangerous, as anyone can buy it with no oversight.

Triton says the device is not for use deeper than 15 feet. It claims to become difficult to use and vibrate a warning after depths of 15 feet, but what’s to stop an uneducated user from venturing down deeper? It seems the company has not ignored this potential danger, but without any third party testing, it’s impossible to know how effective the safety features work, or if they can be easily circumvented.

There are no recommendations for dive computers or depth gauges to keep users within the limits of safe use, and buyers from this campaign could easily find themselves in over their heads.

Artificial Gills To Breathe Underwater: A Million Dollar Scam?

A world of questions remains to be answered about the functionality and safety of the Triton artificial gills. While great in concept, the actualization of this product requires engineering and design that goes far beyond the realm of a small Indiegogo campaign.

If this is a real product, we urge the developers to step forward and introduce it to the world media in person and allow inspection by bona fide scientists and journalists. But until then, buyer beware: If it’s too good to be true, it’s probably false.

tagged: #crowdfunding

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Norway. One of the most beautiful countries in the world. One of the most expensive countries in the world. A unique and cold and clear and precise destination — yet one that until recently had been out of my price range.

But I finally had an opportunity. Norwegian Air is now flying to New York, and at this time, I’ve found it to be the cheapest way to get across the Atlantic. I booked myself two one-way flights: London to Bergen for about $75 (not including luggage) and Bergen to New York three days later for about $350 (not including luggage).

A three-day trip to Bergen would be the perfect opportunity to get a taste of what Norway had to offer.

Once I had booked my flights, I reached out to Visit Norway and they offered to host me in Bergen for a few days, providing me with accommodation, a Norway in a Nutshell day tour, and a Bergen city press pass.

It turns out that three days is the ideal amount of time to visit Bergen. Being a small city, you can cover its main attractions on foot and still have time left over, yet not so much time that you get bored. I spent my first day sightseeing, my second day on the Norway in a Nutshell tour, and my third day relaxing and exploring on foot before jumping on the bus to the airport.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

A Beautiful Waterfront City

Bergen’s old town is built right on the water and on the edge of mountains. In my opinion, it’s one of the world’s most beautifully situated cities (along with Cape Town and Sydney!).

One of my greatest pleasures in traveling is simply wandering and getting a feel for the place. Here’s what you might see on a walk through Bergen.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Wandering Bergen made my heart swell with happiness. It made me realize how much I adore the Nordic countries — their beauty, their design, their architecture, their colors.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Things to Do in Bergen

Bergen’s most famous site is the Bryggen — its World Heritage-listed Hanseatic wharf, whose brightly painted wooden buildings have been standing for hundreds of years.

The Bryggen is a beautiful place to explore. Try to see it from the inside, too.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to NorwayThree Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to NorwayThree Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Catch it at different times of day if you can. The light is beautiful.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

The Fish Market is located right by the Bryggen and is a nice place to window-shop or grab a bite to eat. They sell far more than just fish! Just keep in mind that this is one of the biggest tourist attractions in town and thus extremely overpriced, even by Norwegian standards.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to NorwayThree Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Whale steak, anyone?

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

I didn’t partake this time around, though I did try whale in Iceland a few years ago.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

I was extremely disappointed that the Leprosy Museum was closed — it’s only open from May through August.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

But I did discover its pretty courtyard.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

There are two options to view Bergen from above: the Fløibanen Funicular and the Mount Ulriken Cable Car .

The Fløibanen Funicular is located in the center of town and a short journey to the top. The view is pictured above.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

The cable car is about a 20-minute drive outside of town, and the ticket includes a ride from near the Fish Market. I went in the afternoon, and as you can see, it was the worst time for light. Go early in the day for better photos.

The light was perfect in the other direction, though!

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Between the two of them, I preferred the Fløibanen Funicular. Even though it didn’t go as high, I thought the view was prettier and being right in the center of town, it was less of a journey to get there.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Finally, I allowed myself one splurge — a four-course dinner with wine pairings at To Kokker , a restaurant literally inside the Bryggen. The place feels like a time capsule, with low ceilings and slanted wooden floors.

If you ever head far north, you have to try reindeer. It’s my favorite exotic meat — rich yet lean and extremely tender. At To Kokker, the best course was an absurdly soft reindeer steak in a berry and brown cheese sauce. Also on the menu: elk carpaccio, mussels and turbot, and panna cotta.

Still, though, I’m not sure I would recommend it unless you’re really into food. It’s pricey at 395/595 NOK ($60/91 USD), though I had a 50% press discount) and though it was delicious, it wasn’t quite the rhapsody I expected. I’d rather spend big bucks on a meal in France, Italy, or Spain.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Cafe-Hopping

One of my priorities when traveling is to get in some cafe time. Taking a break with a coffee is my favorite way to decompress in between rounds of sightseeing. Popping into Starbucks will get the job done, but I’d rather find a local cafe if possible.

When I walked past Bar Barista , I had to go in. I mean, look at it!

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Despite the lack of wifi, it was a cool spot to take a break. Nice soundtrack, too — the owner is passionate about vinyl records.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Another cafe I loved was the very Nordic Kaffemisjonen . They served one of the best lattes I’ve ever had. With a side of wifi.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Norway in a Nutshell

I spent a full day on the Norway in a Nutshell tour, taking in the most beautiful landscapes in western Norway’s fjords by train, boat, and bus. If you’re in Norway for a limited time, this is the absolute best way to get a taste of the country’s dramatic landscapes in a single day.

You can see my fjord cruise photos here ; above is a photo from the Flåm Railway.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

Costs in Expensive Norway

Two years ago, I was in Stockholm and aghast at how expensive everything was. As I chomped away on my $18 margherita pizza, two older couples at a nearby table were laughing, eating, and ordering bottle after bottle of wine.

“They’re from Norway,” the waiter told me. “They come here because it’s so cheap.”

?!?!?!!!?!!

That, right there, gives you an idea of just how expensive Norway is.

Here are some of the costs I paid:

  • One-way ticket on the Flybus (Bergen Airport to Bergen city, about 20 minutes): 90 NOK, or $14 USD
  • Raspberry smoothie at a cafe: 66 NOK, or $10 USD
  • Cup of berries at the market: 39 NOK, or $6 USD
  • Four-course meal with wine pairings at To Kokker: 595 NOK, or $91 USD
  • Bottle of water at the train station: 27 NOK, or $4 USD
  • Reindeer burger and cappuccino at a casual restaurant in Flåm: 192 NOK, or $29 USD
  • Toilet at the train station: 10 NOK, or $1.50 USD
  • Two cheeseburgers and a small fries at McDonald’s (no judgment!): 49 NOK, or $7.50 USD
  • Double latte at a cafe: 49 NOK, or $7.50 USD
  • Hot dog and water at a convenience store: 52 NOK, or $8 USD

I found Norway to be the most expensive place I’ve been in Europe, even more expensive than Switzerland, Sweden, Iceland, and Finland. That said, I found it to be worth it — for a short weekend trip in a city as beautiful as Bergen, anyway!

I stayed at the Thon Hotel Bristol , a beautiful mid-range city center hotel that I loved. With low-season rates starting at about $170 per night and high-season rates much higher, it would have been out of my price range if I hadn’t been hosted (then again, most nice city center hotels are out of my price range); however, if it’s in your price range, I highly recommend it.

The cheapest city center accommodation in Bergen’s city center I could find is at the Bergen YMCA , where dorms start at about $30 USD; Marken Gjesthus is a more upmarket hostel with dorms from around $40 USD and doubles from around $110 USD. I found Airbnb private room listings in the city center starting at $55-70 USD.

A three-day trip to Norway will do considerably less damage to your wallet than a two-week trip. With all there is to do in Bergen, I couldn’t think of a better destination to try Norway out for the first time.

Three Days in Bergen: The Perfect Introduction to Norway

The Takeaway

Bergen is one of my new favorite cities of Europe, and if I fly Norwegian Air again, I see myself working in another stopover here in the future! Three days was the perfect amount of time to explore it.

If you’re in Europe — or even in New York, if you don’t mind a seven-hour flight and six-hour time difference — I recommend that you consider Bergen for a long weekend trip. I hope you love it as much as I did.

Essential Info: If you’re interested in doing lots of sightseeing in Bergen, consider the Bergen Card , which includes free or discounted admission to many sites in town. The card costs 260/200 NOK ($40/$30.50 USD) for 48/24 hours for adults and 100/75 NOK ($15/$11.50 USD) for 48/24 hours for children. I recommend adding up the costs of the places you want to visit and seeing if it’s cheaper with a card.

The Bryggen and the Fish Market are free to visit.

The Leprosy Museum is open from May through August only. Admission is 70 NOK ($11 USD) for adults, 35 NOK ($5 USD) for students, and free for children.

The Fløibanen Funicular costs 85/43 NOK ($13/$6.50 USD) round-trip/one-way for adults and 43/22 NOK ($6.50/$3 USD) round-trip/one-way for kids. You can also walk up a paved path for free.

The Mount Ulriken Cable Car costs 150/90 NOK ($23/$14 USD) round-trip/one-way for adults and 80/50 NOK ($12/8 USD) round-trip/one-way for kids. You can also hike up for free, but keep in mind that this is a mountain you’re climbing. The ticket includes a transfer from the city center, near the Fish Market.

Prix fixe menus at To Kokker start at 395/595 NOK ($60/91 USD) for a four-course meal without/with wine pairings.

The Norway in a Nutshell tour includes a train ride on the Flåm Railway, a cruise from Flåm to Gudvangen through the Aurlandsfjord and the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Nærøyfjord, and a bus ride down 14 hairpin turns in the countryside, plus train transportation from your departure point.

The tour runs from Bergen, Voss, or Oslo, though it’s closest to Voss and Bergen and runs year-round from those cities. The tour costs 1145 NOK ($178 USD) from Bergen, 775 NOK ($120 USD) from Voss, 1550 NOK ($241) as a one-way trip from Oslo to Bergen or vice versa (keep in mind that you’ll need to carry your bags throughout), and 2100 NOK ($326) from Oslo.

I stayed at the Thon Hotel Bristol , where low-season rates start at about $170 USD.

Many thanks to Visit Norway for hosting me in Norway. All opinions, as always, are my own.

Have you been to Norway? Is Bergen your kind of city?