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Barcelona and Me: The Complicated Relationship Continues

Barcelona and Me: The Complicated Relationship Continues

This past March, I visited Barcelona for the first time. As you may recall, I was massively underwhelmed , finding the city dirty, crowded, and expensive compared to the rest of Spain, and even the lovely architecture couldn’t lift my spirits.

This September, I had a day and a half to spend in Barcelona between TBU and the Bloghouse.  So, did my opinion on Barcelona change the second time around?

Well…maybe a little bit.

As much as I went in with an open mind, Barcelona in the late summer wasn’t that different from Barcelona in the early spring — only that the streets were much more crowded and the city seemed to be controlled all the more by tourists.  In addition to that, the weather shifted between cloudy and rainy for most of the time, and since we were there on a Sunday, many attractions, including the market, were closed.

That said, Barcelona seemed much more beautiful this time around.  Particularly for the few minutes when the sun came out and the entire street was enveloped in light.

So what did we do to enjoy Barcelona this time around?  We ate a LOT of ham.

Barcelona and Me: The Complicated Relationship Continues

My friends Dylan , Emma and I started our day with lunch (our day started with lunch?  Yes!  It’s Spain!  Everything starts late!) at a nearby restaurant.  We ordered a big plate of jamon iberico along with our tinto de veranos and it was so good, the nutty flat marbled into every slice, that it turned the rest of the day into a happy blur.

Next up?  The Erotica Museum.  It’s right in the center of Las Ramblas and we had always joked while passing it.  Why not actually go in?

Barcelona and Me: The Complicated Relationship Continues

(This is probably the only picture from the visit that I can post here.)

It cost 8 euros, included a cup of champagne, and was absolutely worth it.  (And not only because they have free WiFi).  The museum is a mass of erotic art from all over the world, with everything from Japanese cartoons to African sculptures.

An added bonus?  Step out onto the balcony and the tourists on Las Ramblas start pointing at you and laughing.  “Look at them!  They’re actually in that museum!”

To finish off our day?  Even more ham.  If you turn left when walking out of the museum and take the first street on your left, you’ll find a lovely store that sells jamon iberico in all forms — including in a cone.

Barcelona and Me: The Complicated Relationship Continues

HAM IN A CONE!

For five euros, you got a lovely cone of delicious jamon.  Anyone who says that there aren’t enough meats in a cone in the world needs to come spend time in Spain.

Barcelona and Me: The Complicated Relationship Continues

And as we walked through the gorgeous Gothic Quarter through my ham-filled haze, I realized that I felt much more comfortable in Barcelona this time around.  Between booking a nice Barcelona hotel and having two great friends with me, I didn’t feel the need to walk around hunched over my purse the whole time, fending off any would-be robbers.

My Barcelona takeaway this time around?  It still may not be one of my favorite cities — but I had a great time there. After all this time, I just might be warming to the most popular city in Spain!

Ambivalence in Rainy Barcelona

There are few better ways to learn about yourself than to travel solo long-term. When you spend lots of time alone in a new and different environment, you start noticing quirks about your personality for the first time — the little things that make you happiest or irritate the hell out of you.

Traveling Asia alone taught me all about my mind and body respond to scheduling — the times when I’m likeliest to get bored or be exhausted.  So when I looked at my schedule for my Spain trip, I laughed and said, “I am so not going to like Barcelona.”

How did I know?

1) I’m a contrarian. If people rave optimistically about a certain city, especially a city they haven’t been to, I feel more inclined not to like it.  Barcelona is the ultimate city that people dream of visiting.  That made me skeptical from the beginning.

2) It was coming off a busy few days. If I don’t have enough time to myself, I go crazy.  I had just finished four days of celebrating Las Fallas with Busabout in Valencia, and as crazy fun as those days were, I was craving solo time and work time.

3) I didn’t have much time. Being limited on time stresses me out, which is one reason why I like to travel slowly.  I was only able to spend one day in Barcelona before I had to get back to England for a formal event.

4) I already found Spanish cities I adored. Granada and Sevilla both blew me away, and I knew it would be hard for any other city to compete.

So Barcelona had quite a bit stacked against it from the start.  Since I knew this was going to happen, I tried to psyche myself up. Come on, you’ll love the Sagrada Familia, I told myself. There’s a lot of cool architecture here.  You go nuts for that.

And what happened?

It rained.

Ambivalence in Rainy Barcelona

In Barcelona, city of sunshine, it poured buckets the whole time I was there!

So, what did I do in rainy Barcelona?

I went to see the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s most famous architectural work.

Ambivalence in Rainy Barcelona

This church is really interesting, particularly on the inside, though the 13 euro fee is ridiculous, especially since the towers were closed.

I then walked around the city.  The area around Las Ramblas is pretty touristy, but I got a few decent pictures.

Ambivalence in Rainy Barcelona

I took pictures of plazas in the rain.

Ambivalence in Rainy Barcelona

Afterward, my friend Justin from Las Fallas showed up, and we went out for Thai food.  My final meal in Spain was a panang curry so good, I nearly burst into tears.

My overall thoughts on Barcelona: I realize that I was seeing Barcelona under pretty bad circumstances.  Even so, I didn’t care much for it.  The city didn’t seem to offer me anything new and different from what I had already seen throughout Spain.  It was much more expensive than the other Spanish cities I had visited, and it didn’t seem to have much personality.

Most of all, I had heard so much about Barcelona’s reputation for pickpocketing that I was paranoid the whole time, clutching my purse to me at night, always thinking that someone was about to sneak up when I least expected it.  And, to be honest, that ruined Barcelona for me.  I never felt unease like that in Bangkok or New York or Madrid.  Barcelona irritated me.

Ambivalence in Rainy Barcelona

I’m sure I won’t always feel this way, though. Barcelona will always be there, and seeing how much I fell in love with Spain, I’m sure I’ll return to give Barcelona the chance it deserves!

Have you ever been massively underwhelmed by a destination?