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MOUNTAIN BIKING -- Three days and 13 events kicked off today at the Silveroxx mountain biking festival at Silver Mountain's Mountain Bike Park.
It's not too late to head over to Kellogg to get the gondola ride up for the Moon Snuggle Night Ride tonight!
The featured events are Saturday and Sunday with Silver Race Series events plus the Steeziest Steeze Off, Bunny Hop Comp, Beer Keg Kids Bike Dual Slalom, Outdoor Movies, Super D, Silver Kids Race and the Idaho State Mini Bike Champs.
Today marks the official launch of “Nomadic Matt’s Guidebooks” — a series of budget travel guides for destinations around the world.
There are a lot of guidebooks out in the world, and each has its own personality. What makes my guides different from Lonely Planet, Frommer’s, Rough Guides, or anyone else? Mine remove the fluff, get right to the point, will be updated more frequently, and are curated to focus specifically on budget travel and off-the-beaten-path activities.
My guides are simple and easy to use. They contain the essential information you need to get around your destination without spending a lot of money. Every guide will feature the following sections:
This may look like a list of the essential elements all guidebooks offer, but what makes my guides different is that they are written with the nomad in mind. My guides are for those of you who want to break the mold, get off the well-trodden tourist path, and experience travel more organically. I’ve included ideas for activities that you might not see in any other publications. These guides are for the people who want adventure on a budget. If you are looking for information on those big hop-on, hop-off buses, these guides are not for you!
I wanted to create guides that you’ll use from cover to cover, so I’ve tried to keep them brief while still including as much information as possible. Instead of just creating lists of things to do and see, I‘ve also included information on how to see a city — itineraries that maximize time, money-saving tips, and other practical advice so you get the most out of your visit. My guides take what you love about this site and supercharges it. Plus, they include my favorite hostels, restaurants, and bars — spots you probably won’t find elsewhere!
Each guide is only $4.99 (cheaper than any other guide) and is available via Amazon Kindle or PDF. Each is 70-100 pages in length — you’ll be able to fit several on your tablet, e-reader, or smartphone. Right now, they are only digital, but I’m working toward a print-on-demand service so you can obtain a hard copy, too. (That just takes a little longer to set up!)
I’m starting with the following five destinations:
 Kindle | PDF |  Kindle | PDF |  Kindle | PDF |
 Kindle | PDF |  Kindle | PDF |
I’ve picked locations I know well. I’ve either lived in or heavily visited each of these cities (that is how I am choosing all my initial guides). The next round of guides that will be coming out are Thailand, Australia, Hong Kong (out now) , Berlin, and Costa Rica.
I anticipate writing a handful of guides per year and I have plans to bring on some additional writers to publish guides for destinations they know and love. We’re going to be working hard to make it easier and cheaper for you to explore the world.
This is a big day and I humbly ask your help, especially with Amazon. Please consider purchasing one (or more!) of these new guides, either for your own future travels or as a gift for a friend. At such a low price, it’s an easy way to take the first steps toward the trip you’ve been dreaming of, or to encourage others to head out on their own adventure. More importantly, please, please leave a review of the guides once you’ve read and used them. Amazon reviews are incredibly vital to getting the books ranked well on the service.
Projects like this help keep this website running. Over the years I’ve provided a ton of free information on this site, information I’m happy to share, but your support of projects like this will help keep that information coming and support the new weekly columnists, the forum, the giveaways we host, and the site expansion, so we can promote budget travel and take our message across the world. So even if you aren’t going to the destination soon, consider helping jump-start the launch of this project!
It’s a new chapter for this website and I thank you for any and all of your support!
P.S. If you know someone going to one of these five cities, please share this post with them! Or get them the book as a gift. They will love it!
That famous pink bunny powered by batteries has rolled into the outdoors arena. Energizer’s e2 Lithium headlamp, unveiled at a consumer-electronic trade show in early 2008, is an interesting new entry into the now-crowded product category. The solid little light has an aluminum lamp case and an LED that delivers up to 100 lumens of brightness (140 lumens in a boost mode, as per the company’s spec).
I tested the headlamp on several nighttime hikes this month, and it provided a bright, clear light that created a wide window of virtual daylight. I was impressed with its adequate brightness and peripheral range: The lens has a super-wide setting that illuminates a giant circle of nighttime air, providing a full field of vision (as opposed to a tunnel of light or a beam). This light doesn’t reach as far as the focused beam of a Princeton Tec Apex or a similar model, though for hiking and easy biking after dark the Energizer e2 Lithium gives more than enough light, stretching about 150 feet outward and 75 feet wide in a strong bubble of light.
Bonus: Energizer added a few features I’ve not seen on many other headlamps, including interchangeable battery packs (you can use AA or AAA batteries); a red-light mode for map reading at night (it won’t wreck your night vision); and a tiny blinking green LED on the battery case to provide easy location of the headlight in a dark backpack and to allow your fellow hikers to see you on the trail, even when your light is turned off.
Ergonomically, the e2 Lithium felt fine. That is to say its fit was average — not extremely comfortable but for the most part unnoticeable. Small cord-routing plastic clips on the webbing can rub a bit weird if the unit is worn too tight.
It weighs 6.3 ounces on my scale with its AAA battery pack, which is an average weight. Energizer ( energizer.com ) ships the lamp with two sets of its Ultimate Lithium batteries, purportedly “the world’s longest lasting AA & AAA batteries,” according to the company. These batteries do have some advantages in the outdoors, too, as they are good in temps ranging from -40° F to 140° F.
Energizer touts the e2 Lithium headlamp as “hands-free light for the most extreme outdoorsmen.” I’m not sure I’d go that far. But this light is an admirable new entry into the headlamp game. It is high quality and solid, and its wide, clear and white LED window of light illuminated with aplomb as I hiked down the nighttime trail.
Price: $54.99
Available at www.brightguy.com or www.opticsplanet.net(Stephen Regenold writes The Gear Junkie column for eleven U.S. newspapers; see www.THEwordpress.com for video gear reviews, a daily blog, and an archive of Regenold’s work.)
Back in April, the GearJunkie crew tackled the beastly Maah Daah Hey Trail in North Dakota in a two-day mountain bike blitz. We reached out to a few bicycle brands to see what new models might be a good fit for the trip. Raleigh answered the call with its mid-line 29er, the Talus 29 Elite , which retails for $1,750.
The backbone of the bike is a custom butted aluminum hardtail frame with a hydro-formed top-tube and downtube and a 29” wheelset. Pair these with a FOX F29 RL 100mm travel fork and you’ve got a great, reasonably priced choice for trails with cross-country terrain and beyond.
My first real ride aboard the bike was a doozie. The 97 miles of remote and often disappearing singletrack on the Maah Daah Hey Trail was a true test of the bike’s abilities. The Talus Elite is a big bike and rolls down the trail with stability and confidence. Frame geometry is more tuned for relaxed navigation of anything in your path rather than slice-n-dice, singletrack action. It’s the kind of 29er that garners comments like “This thing feels like a monster truck.”
Sometimes a monster truck is just what you need, and on my trip this bike was a champ. Rutted descents were no issue. Fallen limbs and trees were a mere annoyance. A somewhat set-back position allowed me to confidently roll most obstacles in my path.
With its slightly more upright geometry, the Talus blurs the line between a true cross-country and a trail-category bike. This comfy model loves long days and may be the ideal setup for an endurance racer.
A true podium chaser it is not, however, with a weight that lands in the 30-pound zone. Look to the Talus 29 Carbon Elite if you want to get serious about going fast.
Top tube stand-over height is on the tall side. My size large demo left little room for my 32” inseam to comfortably stand over. The height makes remounts tricky on some terrain. This may not have been an issue on the medium frame.
Some standout parts: The FOX F29 RL fork is a really nice touch. 100mm travel is perfect for this “workingman’s racer” as one company spokesman called it. A 15mm thru-axle front hub gives the big 29er hoops a decidedly more solid, assured feel.
Triple chainrings and Shimano Deore derailleurs worked flawlessly and allowed me to ride up anything my courage would allow. Geax AKA tires are aggressively grippy and fast-rolling. It isn’t a mud tire but is really good at most everything else.
Overall, the component choices were a solid, if not racey, mix of Shimano and Avenir (Raleigh’s house brand) parts.
I’ve enjoyed all of the 200+ miles I’ve logged on this bike and believe that it’s a solid choice in the under-$2,000 arena. While you can find lighter, faster bikes for racing glory, this is a great mid-level bike for anyone looking to either tear up the local trails, strike out on a long epic like the Maah Daah Hey, or even pin a number on for some weekend warrior racing fun.
— T.C. Worley is a contributing editor.
If you told me six months ago that I would have run two successful tours by May, I wouldn’t have believed you.
How did this all come together? Leif and I met in Sri Lanka in November, became instant friends, and he told me about his plan to run a tour to El Salvador and Guatemala during the winter. I thought it sounded like a great idea and offered to promote the tour on my Facebook page.
Well, as soon as I did that, Leif was inundated with emails from my readers. Then we looked at each other and said, “Hey, wait a minute…”
And so we decided to run a tour together. To our great delight (and despite my fears), it sold out in a week and we decided to add a second tour. A March tour and an April tour were run with hardly a hiccup.
In short, running these tours is one of the most fun things I have ever done. And I learned quite a bit about tour guiding in the process.
I always love reading snippets about other people’s lives, so I thought it would be interesting to tell you what it’s really like to be a tour guide.
Honestly, I don’t know how solo tour guides do it. If I were running a tour on my own, I would be miserable.
When you’re the only guide, you have to literally be “on” at every moment of every day. You need to be responsible for every single aspect of the tour. You can’t relax for a moment; all responsibilities fall to you.
Having two guides, or even being a solo guide and offering a friend a free tour in exchange for helping you out, makes such a difference. When you’re feeling overwhelmed and need a moment to step back and catch your breath, someone can jump in. You can handle the aspects that you do the best and your co-guide can take over the parts you don’t enjoy as much.
You can be in two places at once, essentially. A superhuman.
Leif and I quickly fell into a rhythm – he was the macro guide and I was the micro guide. Both roles were essential. Leif would lead the group at the front, and I would keep an eye on everyone from the back. He would give the tour, and I would gather up the strayers so nobody would be left behind. He would work with vendors and I would spend time with people who needed extra help.
If someone needed to be walked to the ATM, or had nobody to eat with, or was sick and needed help, I would spend time with him or her while Leif handled the whole-group aspects. This way, the tour moved at a smooth pace and everyone got the attention they needed. Plus, Leif is an early bird and I’m a night owl, so one of us was always available.
I honestly think that having two guides is the key to actually enjoying yourself while guiding a tour.
No matter what the situation is, you’ll have unexpected expenses crop up, so factor that in even after you calculate the perfect cost for a trip.
We had planned for our dorms at Papaya Lodge to be just fan-cooled, but after the first 85-degree night, our group begged for air conditioning. Of course we paid for it immediately. A few days of air conditioning was absolutely worth it, even though AC is expensive in Central America and it added a dent into our funds.
When the cheap pupuseria closed on the night of our included meal there, we had to move it to a more expensive restaurant. When we found out three girls on the first tour were celebrating their birthdays, we bought them gifts.
And those were just a few of several incidents when we ended up spending more money than we planned. It worked out, though.
This is nothing meant to disparage our first group of twelve – I had the best time with those girls and at the time I thought that group size was perfect. But after running a second tour of six (plus two guides), I realized that I vastly preferred the latter.
I loved every girl in our first group to pieces and I couldn’t imagine the trip without a single one of them — but I now realize that 12 was a few too many. Lesson learned.
Everything was easier in a group of eight. Dinners out were less of a nightmare for restaurant staff. Our group was able to have a single conversation at once. And keeping track of people was much easier.
I mean, try to keep your eye on 12 different people in Antigua’s central market, making sure none of them get lost in the labyrinth as they buy huge bags of chia seeds and half the group moves onto the next hall. Not easy, and definitely the most stressful part of the trip for me, the guide in the back!
I think the ideal tour size for me would be eight travelers and two guides.
If you’re traveling in Latin America, or another developing region, you’ll soon become acquainted with the idiosyncrasies of life here. Food that takes forever to arrive in restaurants and dishes that come out 15 minutes apart. People who schedule things at the last minute. LATENESS.
“I swear to God, my next tour will be in Germany and Switzerland,” I muttered on more than one occasion. “Things work there.”
Every time something went wrong, I felt like I had failed my group and I apologized over and over. “Yes, I know it didn’t say on the menu that it had corn in it and it arrived with corn in it, but that’s Latin America…”
One of the best pieces of advice I got from a friend who runs tours was to create a document called “What to Expect in a Developing Country” and send it out to everyone. I wrote about things like not drinking the water, not flushing toilet paper, keeping small change on you, and expecting cramped public transportation, and I think it gave everyone reasonable expectations about what lay ahead.
You can’t plan for everything, though.
There was one day in Panajachel during the first tour when I got extremely stressed out. Arranging motorcycling and paragliding for 12 different people when the vendors were all very casual and lackadaisical was a nightmare for someone who likes things to be organized.
And I let it show. I was frustrated and griping and shriek-sighing when yet another thing went wrong. It all worked out in the end and everyone in the group had a fantastic day, but it nearly destroyed me in the process.
Then the next day, a few of the girls came up to me with a gift: a bag full of chocolate and booze. “Please don’t be stressed, Kate!” they told me.
I was so touched by their kindness – yet I felt awful. My being stressed out had carried over onto them. This was their special trip, and they shouldn’t have felt anything but joy. I dropped the ball on that one.
For the second tour, if I got stressed, I tried my hardest not to let it show. I plastered a big smile on my face and screamed on the inside (though with a smaller group, things were far less difficult in terms of coordination!).
On the first tour, half the group got food poisoning, mostly in the early days. On the second tour, a few people had it on and off throughout the trip.
When you travel frequently in the developing world, as Leif and I do, I think you can forget what a horror diarrhea can be. We’re used to just brushing it off and letting it pass; for our tour participants, they were freaked out.
Let’s just say that I knew there would be diarrhea at some point — but I was shocked by how many people had it and for how long.
I recommended that everyone see a travel doctor before a trip to the developing world to get a prescription for antibiotics in case of diarrhea that doesn’t clear up. But not everyone did that, and not everyone will do that in the future, so I armed myself with lots of Cipro and Imodium to hand out.
(While I am not a medical professional, several doctors gave the members of our group the same advice: in case diarrhea that doesn’t clear up after two days or so, take 500 mg of Ciprofloxacin twice a day for five days. Cipro is available over the counter in most of the developing world and if you go to a pharmacy, the pharmacist will usually give you the same advice: 500 mg, twice a day for five days. I recommend taking Imodium only when you are scheduled for a long travel day when bathrooms may not be accessible.)
Leading a tour is exhausting. Leading a tour as an introvert, which I indisputably am, is utterly draining. If you don’t take time for yourself to recharge in private, you will lose your mind!
Both times it hit me in Panajachel, one week into the tour. I just had to get away for a few hours. The first time, Leif and I crashed at his apartment down the road from the hotel; the second time, we stayed at the same hotel but I spent a morning not leaving my room. In addition to those days, I gave myself a bit of alone time every day, either reading or surfing Reddit in private.
Downtime is necessary for the group, too. If you’re doing crazy activities every day, you’ll need to balance it with some calmer, lazier days. I think having a leisurely itinerary helped out with that. One of my favorite days in San Pedro was when we literally stayed at the Blue Parrot restaurant all day!
When you are known for being a blogger (or any other kind of personality), you have additional concerns that an unknown tour guide wouldn’t have. People feel like they know you, people have expectations of you before they meet you, and while most people are cool once they meet you, some may have built you or your relationship up to an unrealistic level in their minds.
Some people will assume that because they’re on your tour (or retreat, or seminar, or private online group), you’re automatically going to become their mentor and build them a business so they can travel the world forever. Or you’ll become their new best friend. Or their lover.
A friend I know who runs tours once had to deal with a woman who was convinced she was going to make him her boyfriend. She was hitting on him so often that he took her aside and told her he’d be kicking her off the tour if she didn’t cut it out. She eventually backed off.
Nothing that bad happened with our tours, but there were some incidents that pushed the boundaries.
Going along with the last point, people on the tour will have different needs. Most people will stick with the group most of the time, occasionally breaking into pairs or groups when doing different activities.
Some people, however, will be content to drift in and out of the group, spending days largely on their own and waltzing up two minutes before the shuttle leaves. Others, especially those new to backpacking or the developing world, will need more help with finding their way around, going to a restaurant, or buying something at a store.
It’s easy to think that fairness is paying each person an equal amount of attention, but I don’t think that’s entirely accurate; I think it’s best to give people the level of attention that they need.
I did try to have some alone time with every person on our trips, whether it was getting a coffee together, sharing a private meal, having a deep conversation on a walk or in their room, or even sharing a double kayak!
I’m the kind of person who automatically takes on the emotions of people around me. I sob my eyes out at funerals for people I didn’t know. I visited a young Somali woman imprisoned in Bangkok’s International Detention Center back in 2010 and I was the one who cried my eyes out over her predicament as she comforted me. How messed up is that?
In short, I’m always hyper-concerned about how other people feel, and if they’re upset or uncomfortable in any way, I’ll feel upset and uncomfortable myself and won’t be able to relax until I can make them feel better. And because I’m one of the guides and I feel this way, that feeling can spread amongst the group and one person can drag everyone down.
I’ve learned that when a member of the group is sick or upset, it’s good to take them aside and help them as much as you can privately as you let the other guide stay with the group. And if isolating a grumpy person isn’t an option, well, all you can do is be extra cheerful.
While there are lots of things that will be universally enjoyed – Leif’s motorcycling tour to the hot springs on Lake Atitlan got high praise from everyone – there are times when some people won’t enjoy an activity as much as others.
And you know what? There’s nothing you can do about that. So just aim for most people being happy.
Take the accommodation. Some people preferred the communal living of dorms and were upset when we were split into doubles and triples. Others relished every chance for private or semi-private rooms as often as they got.
Another example was the partying. Our first tour was split – most people enjoyed the level of partying but a few people thought it was a bit too much. By contrast, our second group partied to bacchanalian levels and everyone was happily on the same page about that.
Also, when we collected feedback from the first group, several of the tour members said that three nights in the village of Jaibalito was too long. They felt a bit uncomfortable staying overnight in a small village only accessible by boat. Leif and I were shocked to hear this; we both love Jaibalito and it’s home to the luxurious Vulcano Lodge , the best accommodation on the trip.
So for the second tour, we decided to scale Jaibalito back to two nights and do four nights in San Pedro instead. Until we got to Jaibalito on the second trip and our group asked if we could stay there for a third night. They loved it! We reverted back to three nights.
I think Leif and I have found something that doesn’t really exist in the market yet – cheap backpacker tours that stay in high-quality budget accommodation and move at a leisurely pace.
Most of the backpacker tours out there emphasize seeing as much as possible in a short time. One night one place, two nights another place, one night somewhere else, a train or bus or day trip or full-day activity every day with maybe one free half day per week.
I’ve done tours like those before, and I found them way too harried for my personal taste. This was so much better. Part of enjoying your travels is not being stressed out, and I get stressed out when I worry that I won’t have enough time to do everything.
It was also a good idea starting with four nights in El Tunco because a few people lost their luggage and had to wait a few days for it to arrive! One bag didn’t even arrive until the day before we left for Guatemala.
If you’ve got two weeks and you want to see as much as humanly possible, this tour probably isn’t for you. But if you come on our tours, you will meet awesome people and have so much fun. And that’s a huge part of why we travel, isn’t it?
I cannot tell you how much I adore the people who came on our tours. They’re brilliant, hilarious, sweet, and incredibly kind.
They’re crazy interesting, too. On our tours we’ve had a girl with psychic abilities, a fashion and costume designer who has met both Presidents Obama and Clinton, one of my favorite travel bloggers, a production designer for concerts across the world, a girl who saw the Notorious B.I.G. live, and not one but two marine biologists!
The first group’s age range was 25-40 and the second’s was 27-36. People came mostly from the United States but we also had an Australian, three Canadians, and two dual Albanian/American citizens.
Another interesting thing was that several of our tour participants told us that they were independent travelers who wouldn’t ordinarily book a tour, but they took this one because it looked fun and cheap and different – and they loved it.
This is really only the first chapter in our friendships. Five of us traveled to Semuc Champey together. Reunion plans are already brewing all over the world. And these friendships are worth far more than any money I’ve earned from leading these trips.
I scored three frequent flyer tickets! Can you believe that? One for me, one for my wife, and one for my daughter! To a foreign country! On the same plane! On the same day!
Why all the exclamation marks? Because as many fellow travelers with loads of mileage have found, getting a flight you want with your frequent flyer miles has become about as easy as betting the right number on a roulette board. When you hit it, you feel like you have really scored the big one.
I had reached the point on Continental where I had 107,000 miles and my wife had 67,000. Tired of buying tickets because we could never cash in, we took radical measures. We booked flights to Central America for June 2007. Yes, you read that right–11 months from now. After years of reading Tim Winship’s advice about looking 330 days ahead, I shelved my procrastination tendencies and made some long-term plans. We’re off to Guatemala, a mere 318 days from now (but who’s counting?)
I’d be lying if I said it was a piece of cake though. Besides planning far far ahead, here are the keys to getting a flight for the minimum mileage requirement–usually 25K domestic, 35K for close international, 45-50K for long-haul international:
1) Be flexible on your dates.
We wanted to leave in late June and come back in July, but mid-summer free tickets are about as common as an empty flight these days. As in forget about it if you’re going anywhere desirable.
2) Go midweek.
We had to leave on a Wednesday, return on a Tuesday, for two weeks total. Weekends were all blocked out.
3) Be flexible on flight times.
We’re leaving before the birds start singing and getting home quite late. But the alternative was to spend double the mileage for a more convenient ticket.
4) Be flexible on destination.
We checked out four Central American countries that were possibilities, seeing if one would offer more alternatives than others. (Here’s a hint—forget Costa Rica unless you want to go overland.)
5) Use SeatGuru.com
On many airlines, you can choose your seat as you are buying the tickets. Using SeatGuru, you can see which seats should be avoided.
“I don’t think the bags will fit,” I tell the motorbike driver apologetically.
“No, it’s okay.”
“No, I mean, we tried before and it was too big–”
“No, okay now.”
I had called our lodging ahead of time and asked about transporting our large wheeled backpacks, affectionately nicknamed The Turtle and The Hippo. I had read that there were no cars on this island, only motorbikes, and I wanted to make sure that we would be able to transport our bags.
“It’s no problem at all,” the resort owner had told me over the phone. I took that to mean that there would be simple tuk-tuks or wagons for the motorbikes; instead, he meant that these drivers were simply more determined than others.
The motorbike driver has actually fit Mario’s enormous, 85-liter wheeled suitcase in front of him on the motorbike. There’s just barely enough room for Mario to hop on the back, his day pack extending behind the seat. I follow suit, my huge backpack in the front and my big daypack on my back, gripping the sides of the motorbike tightly.
And we’re off! The paved roads are smooth — but after two minutes, they turn into dirt paths covered with twisted tree trunks, potholes, occasionally planks running over chasms. My driver weaves from side to side, almost at a 45-degree angle. I am freaking out and sweating profusely, begging a higher power to get us to the resort in peace.
Five minutes later, it’s all over. When I get off the motorbike at our ecolodge, my face is white and I can’t stop trembling. Mario gives me a big grin.
My first trip to Thailand took me to Ao Nang, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, Railay, and Koh Chang – all quite popular and very much discovered islands and beach towns. It would be good for me, both for my own benefit and for my career’s benefit, to see a less-developed sign of Thailand.
On this trip, I wanted to visit some developing islands, the kinds that had infrastructure but were much less visited than the perennial favorites. After poring over descriptions of islands, I eventually settled on Koh Phayam, an island off the coast of Ranong Province near the Myanmar border.
Checking into our bungalow at PP Land Ecolodge made me sigh with happiness. The sound of the waves, warm breezes, sunshine, a hammock of our own – this was the southern Thailand that I had fallen in love with years ago, and I had missed it so much.
Our bungalow was simple and lovely, one of few places on the island with 24-hour electricity. The promised wifi didn’t work whatsoever, but we had phone signal and could tether.
The resort’s beach, though, wasn’t what we expected. It was filled with debris – not garbage, but enough branches and broken shells to know that it wasn’t being cared for. In the empty beaches next to the resort, though, the beaches were covered with trash, which inevitably made its way into the ocean. The waves were calm but unusually foamy, as if there were soap in the water.
PP Land’s beach seemed good in theory, but once we saw it in person, we didn’t feel comfortable venturing into the water.
That said, there was far more to Phayam than the isolated corner where our resort stood, and we set off on a motorbike. Mario wielded the crazy roads with aplomb as I squeezed my eyes shut.
We began our exploration at Long Beach, the main beach of Koh Phayam. The maps we had seen made it look like the beach was covered with guesthouses, one after the other. The actual beach looked nothing like that. It was empty, the few guesthouses hidden in the forest just off shore, signs reading “Electricity 6-10 PM.”
It was high season. Where were all the people?
And then we saw the jellyfish.
Long Beach was absolutely covered with beached jellyfish, a new one every few steps, most of them the size of small dinner plates, some of them the size of hubcaps. Here’s one with Mario’s flip-flop for scale.
Three girls ventured into the surf. I shrank back. No way was I getting close!
Back inland, we went exploring on the motorbike. While the roads surrounding PP Land were rough and challenging, most of the main roads on the island were decently paved.
There were a few bars near the beach and the ferry drop-off, but other than that, this was an island for locals, not visitors. Here we found a very friendly atmosphere, with virtually every islander stopping what he or she were doing to turn and wave to us.
Late in the day, Mario and I took a few random turns when searching for another beach, rode to the bottom of a steep hill, and came upon this peaceful spot.
Clear cerulean waters. Only two other people. No buildings. No trash. No jellyfish.
I walked into the water and submerged myself. After two beaches that were unswimmable, finally slipping into the cool water here was a moment of perfection on Phayam.
Hindsight is a gift. Writing most of my posts chronologically and being so far behind in time has given me the chance to look back and analyze my travels.
It took me a long time to realize it, but then it hit me – I was doing what I thought I had to do. There is a lot of snobbery in travel, period, but especially so in regions like Southeast Asia that were once considered the domain of serious travelers only and are now popular with new and inexperienced travelers.
That snobbery increases tenfold when it comes to Southeast Asian islands and beaches. When it comes to islands and beaches, especially in a region as popular as Thailand’s Andaman Coast, a hierarchy quickly emerges. Islands like Phuket and Koh Phi Phi are met with sneers; the “hidden” islands get all the praise.
Resources – and this ranges from guidebooks and online travel guides to travel blogs, travel literature, and the sixth level of hell (also known as Lonely Planet’s Thorn Tree forum), whether they explicitly say so or strongly hint — perpetuate the idea that the quality of a Southeast Asia beach destination is inversely proportional to its number of visitors.
In other words, the more popular the beach destination, the worse it is; the more undiscovered the place, the better it is.
It’s not that simple. Most popular places are popular for a reason, whether it’s Venice or the Grand Canyon. Phranang Beach in Railay is clogged with beachgoers, especially in peak season, but the natural setting is second to none.
Some places, granted, have taken tourism too far. If you look at photos Koh Phi Phi now and 20 years ago, or if you just smell the constant stench of sewage in the air due to the overstressed plumbing, you’ll see that they developed the island too much. That said, Phi Phi is lots of people’s favorite place, and though it isn’t mine, I had a great time there a few years ago.
I ended up on Phayam because people described it with enthusiasm and nostalgia. This was how Thai islands used to be. This was an island that was holding on to its integrity instead of commercialism. Real travelers had to experience an island like this, or else they hadn’t experienced the real Thailand.
I actually let this get to me. I let the opinions of other people make me feel subconsciously bad about my travel choices.
The truth is that Koh Phayam is far too basic an island for me and one nice, out-of-the-way beach doesn’t make up for the fact that I’d never swim at the other beaches.
I don’t regret visiting Koh Phayam at all, because it taught me that I don’t really like this kind of destination. When I’m hanging out in a beach town, I want to be able to find a café or two where I can enjoy a latte and free wifi. I want to be able to get out of a ferry without having to scale a crumbling wall, Bear Grylls-style.
I completely understand why people like Koh Phayam and similarly basic islands. It can be nice to take a break from civilization, strumming your guitar or ukelele and getting to be part of a community of beach bums. As for me, I like electricity. I like wifi. I like being able to work all day and take breaks swimming in the ocean and relaxing on soft sand. I do enjoy visiting pristine, untouched islands – but I prefer to do that on a day trip.
Perhaps that’s why my favorite Southeast Asia beach destinations are Koh Lanta in Thailand and Boracay in the Philippines.
Koh Lanta isn’t nearly as popular as Phuket or Koh Samui, but nobody would call it undiscovered. It’s an island with well-developed tourism for all budgets, filled with tourists (many of them sunburned Swedes) and Western comforts. And I adore it there.
Boracay, on the other hand, is incredibly discovered and is teeming with hotels, shops and businesses. That said, the southern neighborhood of Angol is much quieter and has a great ambiance — but amenities are just steps away from the beach. I’m only two days into my time here, but I adore it here as well.
Both destinations charge fees for the cleaning of the islands, and it shows. The beaches on Lanta and Boracay are beautiful and incredibly clean.
That’s what I love in a beach destination. Nice beaches, connectivity, and decent amenities. And that doesn’t make my travels any less “authentic,” whatever that’s supposed to mean. A barely-discovered island is not the be-all and end-all of Southeast Asian travel. I’m glad that Phayam taught me that.
Ready for my Niagara Falls Road trip on our Toyota RAV4 Limited.
Our Niagara Falls Road Trip began in Woodstock Ontario where we loaded up our Toyota RAV4 Limited kindly on loan to us from Toyota Canada. Funny story – the VIN number on our RAV4 LTD started with a 2. The number 2 indicates the vehicle was built right here in my parent’s home town at the Woodstock Toyota plant. We took my parents for a ride after picking up the car in Toronto (ironic since it’s built in Woodstock) and mom and dad loved it so much, they’re considering ditching their Toyota Prius for a RAV4. Toyota is coming out with a RAV4 Hybrid, and my dad is sold on its spacious and luxury design. But back to our road trip.
Loving the Toyota RAV4 Limited
With coffee in hand I pushed start, quickly adjusted my seat preference and put it in sport mode to drive on the highway. We hit the 403 on ramp to Hamilton and then hopped on the Queen Elizabeth Way towards the Falls. You can take the QEW all the way into Niagara Falls, but our road trip took us on a detour to wine country. Located all around the historic town of Niagara on the Lake, wineries have popped up everywhere. We love visiting this part of Ontario filled with vineyards where we can stock our wine rack with award-winning vintages and enjoy the quiet countryside.
Don’t miss the awesome vineyards on your Niagara Falls road trip.
We turned off at highway 55 leading directly to Niagara on the Lake where within minutes we saw our first winery. Not having a plan, we decided to take random turns along back roads leading us through more vineyards and farmland. It’s a small area and its difficult to get lost. If you don’t have a map or GPS all you have to do is follow the wine route signs and they’ll lead you to spots where you can pick up a bottle or two for a night cap after your day exploring. Naturally the new RAV4 Limited comes with all the bells and whistles, like the Toyota Navigation System, so we knew where we were at all times.
Satellite radio is part of Toyota’s advanced display audio system, which includes a 6.1” touchscreen display, AM/FM/CD/MP3/WMA capabilities, along with Bluetooth compatibility for helpful hands-free calls and vehicle information display.
What to see on a Niagara Falls road trip
When taking your road trip, make sure to give at least two full days, preferably three. We love both Niagara Falls and Niagara on the Lake, and we like to combine the two destinations to make for the perfect blend of peace and quiet with top attractions. You can either start in Niagara Falls and see all the tourist attractions there or leave it for the end. Whatever you do don’t miss seeing Niagara Falls, it’s an extraordinary sight and lives up to the hype.
See: The Top Attractions of Niagara Falls
Start in Niagara on the Lake where you can take carriage rides and old town tours, book a ticket to see professional theatre productions at the Shaw Festival, and try some fine dining at the Cannery Restaurant located in the Pillar and Post; Ontario’s only 5 Star Country Inn.
Niagara Falls Road trip stop #1: Niagara on the Lake
For the quieter side of your road trip, Niagara on the Lake is the place to be. It’s easy to spend days here taking hikes in the forest, or cycling along the Niagara Parkway. You could end up parking your vehicle for a couple of days before setting off to explore again. But make sure that you do continue the road trip, there’s still a lot to see!
Read: 7 Valentine’s Day Getaways in Ontario
Hitting the Niagara Parkway for our Road Trip.
The Niagara Parkway is one of the prettiest Sunday drives in Ontario with many scenic stops along the way. It’s a short strip of road that packs a lot of punch. The first time Dave and I drove this, we b-lined it to Niagara Falls missing all the attractions along the route. We learned our lesson though and have now explored every nook and cranny. Putting our RAV4 in ECO-mode, we saved on gas as we drove to all the sights. After picking up some local fruit and cheese: (fitting for our Niagara Road Trip), we set our satellite radio to Entertainment Weekly Radio (we love catching up on all the gossip), and settled into the soft leather seats. But wait, they’re not leather, they’re SofTex Fabric made to look like leather. Much softer and better suited for my newly vegetarian diet.
Ready for some tunes on the radio. The RAV4 Satellite Radio. What is a road trip without music?
SofTex is a easy-to-clean, soft and durable material that looks and feels like leather – it’s actually more durable than leather. The material is also covered in a special coating to minimize heat absorption – for greater comfort if you leave your vehicle parked in the sun
The first stop out of Niagara on the Lake is Historic Fort George. A key battleground during the War of 1812, you’ll be transported back two centuries to watch the fife and drum core bands play while soldiers give musket demonstrations and if you want, let you shoot one as well.
For more information on the stops along the Niagara Parkway, visit Niagara Parks Canada
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #2: Fort George
There are many historical sites along the Niagara Parkway. McFarland House dates back to 1800 and is one of the oldest homes in the area. You can take a guided tour the rooms that have been restored to their original decor or have afternoon tea at the very popular Conservatory Tea Room. It gets busy in there, reservations are highly recommended.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #3: McFarland House
Keep your eyes peeled for quirky stops along the Niagara Parkway, just a few minutes out of Fort George, we spotted the cutest little chapel across the street. The Living Water Wayside chapel is located right beside a fruit stand where you can pick up some fresh produce and steel a kiss in front of the chapel. After all Niagara Falls was the Honeymoon Capital of the World.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #4: Visit a Vineyard
You cannot visit Niagara on the Lake without visiting one of the many Vineyards. Niagara Wineries like Pellar Estates, Jackson Triggs, and Trius call the area home. If you want to partake in sampling some wine, book a room at Niagara on the Lake and park your car for the day. There are bus tours that will take you from vineyard to vineyard as you sample food and drink from the region. If you are driving, make sure to stop in to enjoy the beautiful architecture of the vineyards and buy one of their premier vintages.
Check out the Niagara Ice Wine Festival and snowshoeing a Niagara Winery
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #5: River Brink Art Museum
It doesn’t look like much from the outside, but this house located on a bend of the Niagara Parkway is filled with priceless works of art from the likes of Tom Thompson, Emily Carr, The Group of 7, and Degas.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #6: the Laura Secord House
Most people have heard of Laura Secord chocolates. They’re popular here in Canada. But Laura Secord played a key role in the War of 1812 and she lived right here between Niagara Falls and Niagara on the Lake. In June of 1813, Laura Secord rode 30 km into enemy territory to warn British soldiers of an impending attack by the American army. Travelling 30 km alone anywhere was dangerous enough at the time, but to ride through enemy territory with valuable information was extremely courageous. We learned of Laura Secord in our history classes thanks to women of the early 19th century championing her story to put it into the history books.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #7: The Mackenzie Printery & Newspaper Museum
I have heard the name William Lyon Mackenzie many times. But in all honesty, I didn’t know a lot about this historic figure. Seeing the Mackenzie Printery and Newspaper Museum made me dig deeper into the history of Toronto’s first mayor. You see, we don’t learn and memorize the names of our past Prime Ministers like the American’s do. I don’t know many of Canada’s early leaders. I always assumed Mackenzie was a Prime Minister. Boy was I wrong. He tried running for office after his tenure as mayor of Toronto, but he was defeated. This museum is from the time before Mackenzie’s political career where he published the Colonial Advocate. Mackenzie, was a hot headed activist whose publication became the leading voice for the reform government that called for responsible government opposing the colonial regime. He ended up leading failed rebellions, he was sent to exile in the US and even spent a year in prison there. Eventually he was pardoned and let back into Canada where he continued his career in journalism.
So that’s a little history, but you can go into the museum to see one of the few original wooden presses remaining in the world!
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #8: The Brock Monument
Brocks Monument is an impressive 55 meter (165 foot) tall statue located on the Niagara Parkway dedicated to Major-General Isaac Brock. The celebrated chief and commander of the British forces was killed at this site in the Battle of Queenston Heights. Located in Queenston Heights Park it’s a pleasant stroll to learn more about our Canadian History.
Read more about Niagara Falls at a Niagara Weekend, Winter Getaway
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #9: The Niagara Glen
Niagara Glen is an excellent spot for those who love to hike. We first visited Niagara Glen during our rock climbing days to go bouldering on its giant rocks located deep in the gorge. There’s a metal stairway that takes you down to the 4.5 km of trails. This national historic site takes you right up close to the raging river and through quiet trails that take you through 450 million year old rocks and caves. It’s the lowest point on the Niagara Escarpment and is not to be missed. Wear proper shoes and bring water. If you want to do some bouldering, make sure to get your permits at the office and bring a crash pad.
Clothing for our Niagara Road Trip is provided by TravelSmith use promo code PlanetD for 15% off purchase over $50
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #10: The Whirlpool Gorge
If you want to see the mighty Niagara Whirlpool, you can take the cable car that goes over the river. But if you want a free view, you can pull over at the lookout just up the road from Niagara Glen towards Niagara Falls. It gives an aerial view of the class 6 rapids and you’ll be able to see the cable car and even the whirlpool jet boats passing by.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #11: The Floral clock
The floral clock is a strange site on the Niagara Parkway. I never really understood why everyone stopped for a photograph. But it is the largest floral clock in the world and it is an interesting site. If you want to visit it, arrive early as tour buses stop there all day long and you’ll end up sharing the view of it with hoards of tourists. I still can’t say why it’s such an attraction, but it’s on the Niagara Parkway, so it’s a must stop on your Niagara Road Trip.
Continuing our Niagara Falls Road Trip, I took control of the wheel and loved the fact that I could raise my seat to see over the steering wheel and make use of the front fenders that are subtly raised to help drivers orient themselves. It’s a bonus for a short person like me!
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #12: the Botanical Gardens
The Botanical Gardens are a quiet reprieve from Niagara Falls. If you buy a Niagara Falls Attraction pass it’s included in your fare and you can be transported around by the WeGo bus. If you are on a Niagara Falls Road Trip like us, you’ll need to pay $5 parking fee. The entrance to the gardens itself is free. If you don’t want to pay the $5 park down the road at the whirlpool and walk 10 minutes or so along the Niagara Parkway to the gardens and you don’t have to pay a cent. The gardens have some displays that are worth seeing, but it’s not one of the most beautiful we’ve seen. I would visit more for the butterfly museum than the gardens themselves and I think that’s the plan that Niagara Parks had in mind.
The Butterfly conservatory is an extra steep fee of $16 per person, but it’s a wonderful stop to walk through the tropical setting and have butterflies land on your shoulder.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #13: Niagara Falls
A visit to the area would not be complete without seeing Niagara Falls. It takes our breath away every time you see it. The best spot to view the falls is early in the morning at the lip of the Horseshoe Falls. Here you can see feel the raging water and get so close it’s actually quite frightening. One slip and you are over the edge. Be careful here, a few years ago, a Japanese tourist was swept over the edge as she stood on the safety wall for a ridiculous photograph. Really, why are so many people risking their lives for selfies?
If you visit Niagara Falls, there are many attractions to do here. It’s worth staying in town for two or three days and to buy an attractions pass . The pass covers such attractions like the Hornblower (Formerly Maid of the Mist) that takes you almost directly up to the falls by boat, Journey Behind the Falls, that takes you through a series of caves behind the Falls, and some of the attractions I mentioned above.
Niagara Falls Road Trip stop #14: Clifton Hill
We even love checking out the wax museums and haunted houses on Clifton Hill. It’s cheesy and crowded but filled with so much energy and excitement.
We end our Niagara Falls Road Trip at the Fallsview Casino area where the hotels are quieter, more luxurios and offer extraordinary views of both the American Niagara Falls and the Horseshoe Falls. If you want a romantic getaway, this is the place to be.
Do you have any favourite stops on the Niagara Parkway during your previous Niagara Road Trips?
Read next: The Best Road Trips in the World
This post is in partnership with Toyota Canada where we test drove the Toyota RAV4 Limited. All opinions are our own. For more information on the RAV4 Limited visit Toyota Canada for more details. Follow Toyota Canada on Faceook , Instagram and Twitter for more news and updates.
Toyota RAV4 Limited in Niagara Falls
SAFETY HIGHLIGHTS
- The vehicle features framing with ultra-high strength tensile steel including bars built into the doors and vehicle roof.
- The RAV4 AWD Limited includes active safety technologies such as Blind Spot Monitoring System (BSM) with Rear Cross-Traffic Alert (RCTA) and Lane Departure Alert (LDA) (as part of the optional Technology Package available on Limited)
INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR DESIGN HIGHLIGHTS
- Stabilizing fins on the exterior of the vehicle minimize drag and create a more aerodynamic vehicle (for a more stable ride)
- Rear seat passengers are not an afterthought – the vehicle was designed to feature spacious legroom (including almost flush flooring for the middle seat), and backseats that can recline
- The programmable rear liftgate allows you to set your ideal height when the trunk is open, for greater comfort and convenience
- The RAV4 boasts 1,090L of cargo capacity (2,080L when the rear seats are folded down
DRIVING EXPERIENCE
- Push button start
- Smart key system – meaning you can open and close the driver and passenger door from the outside with a touch or by placing your hand in the door handle (when key fob is within proximity of the door)
- 2.5L 4-cylinder engine, 176 horsepower, 172 pounds of torque, 6-speed automatic transmission
- All-Wheel Drive system uses the front wheel predominantly but automatically switches to AWD when needed
- Using lock mode at speeds under 40 km/hr you can split the engine power 50/50 over the front and back wheels
- Advanced Drive Mode Select lets you choose between Normal, ECO and Sport modes to match RAV4’s performance and efficiency to your driving style and the road conditions. ECO mode helps save at the pumps by enhancing fuel efficiency and promoting more efficient driving, while Sport mode ups the fun factor by sharpening shift timing along with throttle and steering response to respond more crisply to your driving inputs.
