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The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Spending a week at Haramara Retreat in Sayulita with Nourish Retreats was fantastic. As you read before, the resort is fantastic and unlike anywhere I’ve ever stayed before .

But the food was on another level.

I’m not exaggerating when I say this — after traveling through France, Italy, Thailand and Vietnam, some of the best food I’ve ever had while traveling was at Haramara Retreat.

Ordinarily, I would go on holidays in Mexico and eat tons of guacamole, enchiladas and flan…washed down with plenty of margaritas, of course!

Haramara Retreat is a resort for yoga retreats, so you need to stay healthy.  The menu featured incredibly healthy meals, mostly vegan, and often dairy- and gluten-free, too!  (For the record, margaritas are vegan and gluten-free as well!)

This was my first time eating (mostly) clean for an extended amount of time, and it was eye-opening. I’ve never felt so healthy in my life.

Every meal started out with a vegetable dip with baked chips, carrots, jicama and cucumbers, and a fruit-flavored water.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

I loved this beet dip.

And now…get ready for the gorgeous food!

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Gazpacho — finely pureed and topped with basil.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Finely chopped tomato, onion, avocado, cilantro, cucumber and mushroom salad.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Coconut cake.

We were served three course meals for both lunch and dinner every day! For breakfast, we had some fantastic granola, yogurt, fruit and eggs.

The next meal:

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Vegan creamy zucchini soup.  The olive oil and sesame seeds made it so pretty.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Red snapper over vegetables.  We had fish on three occasions, and always a small serving.  The rest of the time, it was all vegetarian.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Peach cake with coconut and kiwi.

It might be hard to believe that we lived through a fitness retreat while eating a mostly vegan diet, but our meals incorporated so many beans and other sources of non-animal protein.

The next day:

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Pear salad with walnuts.  I read recently that a pear vinaigrette is a great way to incorporate fiber into your diet.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Chile relleno — a pepper stuffed with cheese and some seriously spicy sauces.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Little baby vegan, gluten-free chocolate cake!

Haramara Retreat’s chef, Hugo, gave a demonstration to our group.  I unfortunately missed the demonstration because I had work to do, but the girls raved about how much love Hugo puts into his food.

I don’t want to share his recipes here, just in case he wants them kept private, but I will say that he made his delicious vegetable dips by finely pureeing the vegetable with avocado oil, which you can find at health food stores.

I would honestly return here for the sheer purpose of having Hugo cook for me.

Lunch the next day:

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Vegan potato salad with new potatoes.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Stuffed pepper filled with rice.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Chocolate ice cream profiterole!

Up next:

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Creamy almond soup with pistachios, asparagus and shaved truffles.  My favorite dish all week.

It was as creamy as a chowder — yet vegan!  How?  Hugo used coconut milk.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

More red snapper and vegetables.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Fruit soup in orange juice.

And, finally:

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Salad with hibiscus and goat cheese.  A great combination.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Portobello mushrooms, creamy polenta, and tomato sauce.

The Irresistible Food of Haramara Retreat

Vegan chocolate mousse.  How do you make vegan chocolate mousse?  With avocado, believe it or not!

Would you like to eat these amazing meals?  Well, here’s your chance.

Nourish Retreats is returning to Haramara Retreat in November.

You heard it here first.  The retreat is still being worked out, so the details aren’t on the site yet, but you can check out the site or follow Nourish Retreats on Facebook for updates.

This place is very special. You don’t need to be a human pretzel to do well at this retreat, and even someone as bad as fitness as me can do well and have a great time.

My time at Haramara Retreat was spent as a guest of Nourish Retreats .  All opinions, as always, are my own.

New York: As Seen By Instagram

While spending the holidays at home in Boston, I took a quick trip to see my sister (and get my India visa) in New York City.

I was fighting a pretty bad cold, so I wasn’t motivated to run around the city all day, but I got to see lots of my friends — and I did get a few great Instagram shots.

Here we go:

New York: As Seen By Instagram

Good morning from Harlem! If you’re not lucky enough to have a sibling with an apartment in Manhattan, you could always try out timeshare rentals and have an apartment that feels like your own!

New York: As Seen By Instagram

Meet me at the clock! The Waldorf-Astoria was decked out for Christmas, and I used this as my meeting point with my travel blogger buds Dylan and Nicole .

New York: As Seen By Instagram

Pabst Blue Ribbon and tater tots?  Yes, we’ve arrived in Hipsterville. I took this shot at Crif Dog in the East Village and it’s one of my favorite black and white shots.

Everyone at Crif Dog was a fresh-out-of-college hipster — retro glamwear for the girls, sculpted facial hair for the guys.  I felt old.

New York: As Seen By Instagram

And we did have Crif Dog’s famous hot dogs. Mine, on the right, was a bacon-wrapped hot dog with avocado and sour cream.  It was made with so many of my favorite foods!!

New York: As Seen By Instagram

Our next stop: Eataly, Mario Batali’s combination gourmet shop and restaurant. One strange thing: as soon as we got to Eataly, everyone was MY age!

If the early twenty-somethings are in the East Village and the late twenty-somethings are in Midtown, where are the mid-twenty-somethings?

At any rate, I always tell people that the easiest way to get to my heart is with cured meats and red wine.

New York: As Seen By Instagram

The meat case at Eataly was impressive.

New York: As Seen By Instagram

But it wasn’t nearly as impressive as the cheese. How amazing do those cheeses look?  I wanted to eat them all.

And to conclude:

New York: As Seen By Instagram

India visa: acquired. Not the easiest or cheapest visa to get, but well worth it.

New York: As Seen By Instagram

See you later, New York. 125th Street will still be there when I return a few months from now.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

New York has become one of my bases over the past few years. With so many of my friends living there (as well as a sister who doesn’t mind putting me up on her couch), I’m spending more and more time in the city, and with that, looking for new and interesting things to do on my visits.

One activity that I had been wanting to do for years? A Queens street food tour by Jeff Tastes . And somehow I kept pushing it until a future visit.

After hearing me talk about the tours forever and never actually booking one, my sister Sarah and her boyfriend Zack surprised me by booking the three of us on the Midnight Street Food Crawl for my birthday present. What a perfect gift!

In my past few years of travel, food has gone from a hobby of mine to a full-fledged obsession. From watching a giant tuna being theatrically butchered in the middle of a restaurant in Kyoto to hunting for truffles with dogs in Emilia-Romagna to planning an entire Southern USA road trip around what I would be eating, my greatest travel experiences (and memories) have been shared through food.

But there’s one big gap in my food knowledge. When I can talk about Asian or European food for hours, I barely know anything about Latin American food. The only Latin American countries I’ve been to are Mexico and Argentina (I plan on changing that this winter!) and the only Latin American cuisine that I know well is Mexican.

This tour changed everything. I left with knowledge of food not only in Mexico but Ecuador, Colombia and the Dominican Republic.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

The Midnight Street Food Crawl

Jeff’s tours are informal — right away, he feels like that foodie friend of yours who just wants to take you around his neighborhood. (Which it is. Jeff lives here and knows it like the back of his hand.) Jeff picks out whatever food looks good and every tour is a little bit different. About eight dishes are included on the tour, but if you want to get more on your own dime, you’re welcome to do so.

Jeff took us to street carts, food trucks and takeaway restaurants in Jackson Heights and Corona. We learned about New York’s strict food cart laws and how some people are, shall we say, interpreting them creatively. At one point, we were invited into an art-deco-theater-turned-church where a service had just finished.

Throughout the night, Jeff introduced us to the different vendors and chatted with the other customers about what they were eating today. At one point, Jeff even argued with one local who said he didn’t like Muslims (“Why? They’re not bothering you! They’re not bothering you!”).

Some of the treats we ate on our tour:

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

Why not start with dessert? The first treat of our crawl was limon nieves, a Mexican lemon slush.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

Carnitas tacos are one of my favorite things, ever, and this one was the best I’ve ever had. Carnitas is seasoned pork cooked in lard or fat for a few hours until tender and served with tortillas.

You think bacon is candy? Wait until you try carnitas. Hoo boy.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

“When you see the word quaker, what do you think?” Jeff asked us.

“Oats?” I guessed.

“Yeah. Quaker is passion fruit juice made with oats.”

I know it sounds weird, but believe me, it was delicious. Bright and refreshing with a slightly textured feel.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

If you had to make a sandwich without using bread, what would you use instead? If you’re Dominican, you mash and fry plantains into patties and use them to surround a pile of meat. This is a patacon and as much as it felt like a heart attack on a plate, was it ever delicious.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

When it comes to coconuts, I’m used to just sticking a straw in a coconut and sipping it plain. At an Ecuadorian food truck in Corona, their coconut juice was filled with LOTS of sugar. OH SO SWEET AND GOOD. And now I can’t go back to plain coconuts again.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

Ecuadorian seco de chivo (goat stew) and guatita (peanut-based tripe stew). I’m putting guatita into the category in which haggis and paté fall — it’s really, really good if you don’t think about what you’re eating!

Jeff lugged along a bag filled with forks, spoons, and cups, dividing everything into fourths (the fourth member of our tour was a friend of Jeff’s, a foodie and longtime New Yorker originally from Japan — he and I had a LOT to talk about!).

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

On New York Today

I feel like New York is becoming increasingly scrubbed up these days. Prettier, cleaner, far more expensive. Gentrification reigns as the rich spill beyond Manhattan’s borders, taking over neighborhoods in Brooklyn and pricing locals out of their homes in every direction. And even though anyone who’s spent time in New York knows it’s far from squeaky-clean, it just seems so different today, especially compared to the fearsome New York of the 80s and 90s.

I feel like most of the travel and lifestyle bloggers who cover New York today focus only on the pretty, the upscale, the expensive — ignoring its less attractive aspects. I know I’m guilty of it. (Call it the Sex and the City legacy. Love it or hate it, that show is still far more influential than anyone ever dreamed it would be.)

There are some exceptions to this, of course, no blog more so than Humans of New York — but for the most part, if you were judging New York based on the blogosphere alone, you’d imagine a gleaming city of brownstones and burnished chrome and adorable food trends, of boutiques and maybe the occasional witty hobo. Not exactly a full-fledged, well-rounded city home to more than just the economically privileged.

This part of Queens was the best antidote. Jackson Heights and Corona are working-class neighborhoods of Spanish-speaking immigrants. It’s not that pretty, but the food is simple, delicious, and astoundingly fresh. People stopped at streetside counters and chatted with neighbors as they ordered food. Taking in the late-night Roosevelt Ave. street life as the subway rolled overhead, it felt more like Bangkok or Manila to me than New York.

A Street Food Crawl Through Queens, New York

The Takeaway

I’m so glad I finally got to go on this tour. I feel like Jeff gave me the keys to a new part of New York City. If I had come to Jackson Heights on my own, even with internet research, I would have been a bit lost — but now that I’ve gotten the lay of the land, I can explore it in greater depth next time (and hopefully hit up some Indian and Himalayan eateries).

You bet I’ll be returning to eat my way through Jackson Heights and Corona. One of my friends in New York used to live on the Texas-Mexico border and I can’t wait to show her how good the Mexican food is here!

If you’re looking for something new to do in New York, especially if you’ve been focusing on the shiny, upscale side of New York lately, this is a great way to spend an evening.

Essential Info: Jeff’s Midnight Street Food Crawl takes place in Jackson Heights and Corona, costs $59 per person and lasts about three hours. Despite the name, it starts at 8:30 PM, not midnight. The cuisine on this tour is Latin American.

Jeff runs another tour: Queens Tastes of the World , which also costs $59 and lasts three hours, but it takes place during the day in Jackson Heights, Elmhurst, and Woodside, covering cuisines from all over the globe.

See Jeff’s full site here for more information about the tours, the food, and the neighborhoods.

A little bit of Spanish will help you immensely in this part of Queens.

What’s the best food tour you ever went on?

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

If you’ve been reading this site for any amount of time, you know that I tend to go a bit crazy when food is around. I adore food and eating my way through new places is one of my absolute favorite parts of traveling.

I ate SO well this year — but what were the best dishes of all?  I decided to round up the top 12.  When I started narrowing down the foods of 2012 for this post, I kept a tissue nearby to wipe up the resulting saliva.  By the time I finished, I had a beach towel.

Behold: the 12 best things I ate in 2012!

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

12. Čevapćiki in Sarajevo, Bosnia

The first item on my list is a bit of an oddball.  I hate raw onions and have never been able to tolerate them — excluding this surprising dish.  It’s just pita bread, meat (most likely veal), and loads of raw onions, but these three ingredients together unlock something magical.  I found myself craving čevapćiki!

Where to get it: You can find these all over Bosnia and the Balkans.  It’s pronounced CHEV-up-CHEE-kee. You’ll never pay more than 5 marks ($3) for one.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

11. Rocambolesc Gelato in Girona, Spain

I’ve waxed poetic about this gelato before. Rocambolesc does some of the best and definitely the most creative gelato I’ve ever seen.  My apricot gelato was topped with mandarin syrup, green tea cake, and a fior de coco.  Absolutely outstanding — and it’s not every day that you get served ice cream by one of the world’s best chefs!

Where to get it: Rocambolesc is in the heart of Girona, right by the Eiffel Bridge.  A cone like this will set you back €4 ($5) or so.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

10. Pastels de Nata in Evora, Portugal

I became a bit of a caffeine addict in Portugal this year, taking every chance I got to stop for an espresso. Why?  For the accompanying pastels de nata, the creamy egg tarts that are a staple of the Portuguese diet!  I had a few dozen of these over the course of my month in Portugal, but the very best one was at a cafe in Évora.

Where to get it: Pastels de nata are in every cafe and bakery in Portugal.  I can’t remember the name of this cafe, but it was a bright, modern cafe right on the main square in Évora.  You’ll pay about €1 ($1.20) each.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

9. Arbroath Smokie in Arbroath, Scotland

What is a smokie?  A haddock that is gutted, dried and smoked in the Scottish town of Arbroath — and probably the best fish I have ever tasted.  We stopped here on the way back from Shetland and each picked up a smokie, which we held and ate like an ice cream cone.  I’ve never tasted fish so rich and flavorful.

Where to get it: We stopped at M&M Spink in Arbroath.  The costs vary based on weight, but I definitely didn’t pay more than £3 ($4.50).

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

8. Lamb Steak with Fermented Lamb Salt in Tórshavn, Faroe Islands

Salt is often the ingredient that makes the biggest difference in a dish.  As for salt made from fermented lamb, it elevated this dish to 11!  If there is any way to get a dish to go from tasty to life-changing, just add a dash of fermented lamb salt.  I had this as one of the delicious, creative courses at KOKS, the most acclaimed restaurant in the Faroe Islands.

Where to get it: KOKS is located in the Hotel Føroyar in the capital of Tórshavn.  The restaurant offers four/six/eight-course menus for 460/680/850 kroner ($82/122/152).

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

7. Skyrcake in Reykjavik, Iceland

Icelanders love their skyr — a thick, tart yogurt.  I settled into the funky Laundromat Cafe for a working afternoon and ordered a coffee and a skyrcake.  Pieces of cookies draped in layers upon layers of skyr and topped with lush, juicy berries and white chocolate chunks?  The menu boasted the dish’s healthiness; I just marveled at how delicious it was!

Where to get it: The Laundromat Cafe is in downtown Reykjavik.  The skyrcake costs 850 ISK ($7).

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

6. Post-Dessert Dessert in Constantia, South Africa

After indulging in quail velouté, veal steak, and a bizarre passion fruit, pink foam, and meringue dessert at La Colombe in Constantia, the heart of South African wine country, I thought I was done.  And then, after our plates were cleared, the post-dessert dessert appeared.  We got to try one of each: maple meringues, rose Turkish delights, lemon financiers, peach marshmallows, and salted caramel truffles.  And oh, did I enjoy each one of them.

Where to get it: La Colombe .  The set menu costs 570 rand ($65) and includes amuse bouche, three courses, palate cleanser, and this plate of post-dessert desserts.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

5. Breizh Cafe Crepes in Paris, France

My friends Edna raved so much about Breizh Cafe, I was dying to go from the moment I arrived.  And she was right — Ashley and Mario and I soon discovered that these were the absolute best crepes and galettes in Paris.  Forget everywhere else — these are the real deal.  The buckwheat crepes were crispy and buttery with perfectly-cooked ingredients; the crepes’ salted caramel butter is nothing short of divine.  If you don’t order a crepe with salted caramel butter, you’re missing out majorly!

Where to get it: Breizh Cafe is in the heart of the Marais.  I had the egg, cheese, ham and artichoke galette for about €7 ($9) and the salted caramel with chantilly crepe for €5 ($7), though fancier ones quickly get more expensive.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

4. Ricotta Crostata in Torgiano, Italy

Ricotta.  Perugine chocolate.  Layers of perfectly cooked crust.  The best dishes in Italy are the simple ones, and this dish at the Terre Margaritelli winery knocked one out of the park with its simple deliciousness.  One slice was not enough for a lifetime.  Even our resident celiac found herself digging out the filling so she could join in!

Where to get it: You’ll have to ask Jennifer at Life Italian Style — she offers cooking classes and she can even teach you how to make it!  Prices vary.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

3. Free Tapas in Granada, Spain

The miracle of Granada is that you can’t order just a drink — you automatically get a tapa.  It could be something traditional like a plate of jamon or patatas.  It could be something ethnic like Chinese dumplings or Thai chicken and rice.  It could be a brand new cutting-edge dish, or something as big as a sandwich and chips!  For free!  Granada is one of the few cities in Spain that still offers free tapas with drinks, and I hope this continues forever.

Where to get it: There is a tapas bar in Granada that I love called Poe .  They feature a lot of unusual items on their menu.  I paid just €1.80 ($2.50) for a tinto de verano (red wine with lemon soda) and a tapa.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

2. Jamon Iberico in Barcelona and Costa Brava, Spain

Oh, jamon iberico.  This may be the best meat in the world — filled with salty cured goodness, but with an additional strong nutty flavor that lingers in your mouth for hours.  Jamon iberico is one of the few foods that can bring me to tears on a regular basis.  You don’t want to know how much of this I consumed in Spain.

Where to get it: Many restaurants in Spain have jamon iberico on the menu as their top-level ham.  You can expect to pay around €12 ($16) for a medium-sized plate in a mid-range restaurant in Barcelona and less in markets or smaller cities.

And the absolute best thing I ate in 2012?

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

1. The Black Truffle Pizza at Jupiter Pizzeria in Pula, Croatia

I cannot tell you just how incredible this pizza is.  It is absolutely heavenly.  I am a truffle fiend and finding this pizza drenched in black truffle was one of the best things I have EVER consumed.  If you end up in Pula, go to this pizzeria immediately — because you’ll want to return every night.  This pizza will CHANGE YOUR LIFE.

Where to get it: Jupiter Pizzeria is on a narrow street in Pula.  Make sure you ask for tomato sauce — the menu has multiple translations and one of the translations includes tomato sauce, but one doesn’t.  The pizza costs 38/42/84 kuna ($7/7.50/15) for small/medium/giant.  The above is a medium.

The 12 Best Things I Ate in 2012

And a bonus!  The best AND worst:

The simultaneously best and worst things I ate this year were the deep-fried Mars bars I had in Glasgow and Edinburgh.  Best because they were absolute deep-fried melted chocolatey caramely goodness.  Worst because of the deep-fried melted chocolatey caramely goodness.

Get them at Bene’s in Edinburgh for £2 ($3).

Honorary mentions: Gelupo pistachio gelato in London; all the tapas Erin introduced me to in Madrid; Icelandic tapas in Reykjavik; tomato fish chowder in Montenegro; porchetta in Umbria; the many plates of salume in Umbria; and the daily turn-down desserts at 54 on Bath in Johannesburg.

Which one of these would you MOST like to sink your teeth into?