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Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

Early evening is a magical time in Italy, when everyone comes outside to walk the streets — that evening ritual is called the passeggiata, and it goes on throughout the country.

Then darkness falls. Bologna, as fascinating a city as it is during the day, becomes positively magical at night.  Here are some of my favorite photos.

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

Bologna is, first and foremost, a food city — and the streets are dotted with fruit and vegetable stands. Do not touch the produce under any circumstances — it’s a major faux pas in Italy.

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

I spoke earlier about Bologna’s trademark arches, but I just need to reiterate how much I love them! They keep you cool in the summer, warm in the winter, shielded from the rain and sun, and they provide a great subject to photograph at night.

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

It’s hard for me to walk past a bookstore and not go in. When I saw this tiny bookstore, looking like it belonged in the pages of a storybook, my heart literally ached.  I wonder what it was like inside.

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

I thought these thick doorway arches were interesting — I don’t recall seeing these elsewhere in Italy, but I saw them in several different towns in Emilia-Romagna.

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

I could spend all night looking in the windows of the food shops. Despite how many Bologna has, each of them seem to have starkly different products for sale.

Photo Essay: Bologna at Night

I don’t know what it was about this car park at this angle…it just looked so beautiful to me, so perfectly Italian.

When night falls in Bologna, don’t ensconce yourself in your room. Get out and walk around.  It’s a whole different side of Italy.

Many thanks to Emilia-Romagna Tourism and Wilde PR for hosting me on the Delicious Emilia-Romagna Blog Trip.  All opinions, as always, are my own.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

After spending the past few days in Emilia-Romagna, Italy, I’ve completely fallen in love with this absolutely delicious region.

For now, here’s an introduction in photos:

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

Bologna, Emilia-Romagna’s largest city, as seen from Piazza Maggiore, the heart of the city center. Bologna is a university city, a northern city, and a lesser touristed Italian city, and because of all those factors, you get a vibrant and local atmosphere.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

Bologna is famous for its arches throughout the city — they actually run for more than 40 km! They were originally built to create more space for homes while leaving the street free for traffic.  You see this style throughout cities in Emilia-Romagna.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

Cured meats and red wine — I was in heaven. At this tiny shop in Bologna, we sampled salami and parmesan cheese with drops of balsamic vinegar as sweet as candy.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

Our second stop in Emilia-Romagna was Castel del Rio, a town famous for its chestnuts. We gathered chestnuts while taking in the views in this bucolic corner of the mountains.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

The most epic meal we’ve had in Emilia-Romagna so far was lunch at Gallo Ristorante in Castel del Rio — five enormous courses, starting with this lovely antipasto. That’s mushrooms and chicken liver pate on the crostini.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

Our next stop was Rimini, Italy’s premier beach party town. Despite its Jersey Shore-esque reputation in the summer, Rimini actually has a tony, chi-chi side to it, filled with new designer shops, upscale nightlife, and chic boutique hotels.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

And since we had landed on the Adriatic coast, of course we had to go out for seafood! This plate of crudo — Italian raw seafood — was our appetizer.  The tuna and the raw shrimp were particularly fabulous.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

The next day, we went to Sant’Agata Feltria, famous for its truffles. We went hunting for truffles with two dogs and found a few of these gems hidden in the ground.  A white truffle this size is worth about 15-20 Euros.

Emilia-Romagna — An Introduction in Photos

Sant’Agata Feltria has its famous Truffle Festival every Sunday in October. There was an enormous market filled with so many delicious goodies — truffle cheese, truffle salami, jars of truffle sauce and more!

And that is just a taste of the delicacies that we experienced in Emilia-Romagna.  Are you hungry yet?

Because I’ve got PLENTY more.

Many thanks to Emilia-Romagna Tourism and Wilde PR for hosting me on the Delicious Emilia-Romagna Blog Trip.  All opinions, as always, are my own.

Bologna, Italy: the Sexy, the Delicious, the Untouristed.

Bologna, Italy: the Sexy, the Delicious, the Untouristed.

Sometimes, you walk into a place and feel an immediate revelation — this is what I’ve been searching for, and I didn’t know it until now.

That’s how I felt about Bologna — la grassa, la dotta, la rossa — my new favorite city in Italy.

I’ve been no stranger to falling in love with Italy — I was hooked immediately from the moment that I arrived for my semester abroad in Florence in 2004. Italy is one of my favorite places to travel solo — I love walking the streets alone, taking pictures, drinking caffe while standing up at bars, getting catcalled by men, window-shopping for fabulous items I can’t afford.

But in Bologna, I discovered something I had never experienced before — a beautiful Italian city, filled with stylish locals and beautiful architecture and insanely photogenic food stands on every corner — but with no foreign tourists in sight.

Yes.  This was worth waiting for.

Bologna, Italy: the Sexy, the Delicious, the Untouristed.

Italy’s University City

As many European cities are today, Bologna is a mix of the traditional and the modern. Some cities, like Vienna, have old and modern buildings right next to each other.  In Bologna, it’s more like a wild kaleidoscope of traditions all mixed together.

Take those arches in the picture above. They actually go on for 40 kilometers!  They were originally built so people could have more space in their homes while leaving space in the street.  Today, you’ll see young university students out drinking underneath those same arches, guzzling the same wines of yesteryear while wearing fashions that haven’t even become trends yet.

It’s the university culture that gives Bologna much of its vibrancy. Bologna is home to Europe’s oldest university, and much of Bologna’s culture is centered around the fact that for centuries, the city has been filled with young people learning.

And I would have loved to study in Bologna with them.  Bologna has a chaos about it — not as insane as Rome, but still pretty wild — and the city feels like it’s pulsating with energy.

Bologna, Italy: the Sexy, the Delicious, the Untouristed.

La Grassa

Emilia-Romagna has long been Italy’s premier food region, and Bologna has long been Emilia-Romagna’s premier food city. Food is taken very seriously in Bologna.  Meals are leisurely and some restaurants only have one seating each night!  And in Bologna, casual is chic — we ate a fabulous meal after ordering off a giant menu made from a cardboard box.

I should probably say this as soon as possible — bolognese sauce in Bologna is nothing like the tomato-drenched bolognese that populates Italian-American restaurants and backpackers’ hostels in Southeast Asia!  The real bolognese from Bologna is mostly meat in a thin sauce with tomatoes and other vegetables, often served with tagliatelle.

Another advantage of eating in Bologna is that there are so many treasures in the surrounding cities and villages of Emilia-Romagna — balsamic vinegar in Modena, marron chestnuts in Castel del Rio, truffles in Sant’Agata Feltria, and, of course, parmesan cheese and prosciutto in Parma.

You’ll find hundreds if not thousands of culinary treasures just from wandering the streets of Bologna — in restaurants, in shops, and in street stands.  In Bologna, eating well couldn’t be easier, and that’s why I love it!

Bologna, Italy: the Sexy, the Delicious, the Untouristed.

All of the Charm, None of the Tourists

I loved Florence, and always will — but its popularity comes with a price. I hated having to dodge several umbrella-wielding Japanese tour groups on the way to class, and seeing tourist trap restaurants trying to trick people everywhere, and being spoken to in English in most places.

Most cities have an off-season when tourists disappear.  But even in the dead of winter, Florence, Venice and Rome swarm with tour groups.

What is wonderful about Bologna is that it’s filled with everything I love about Florence — beautiful architecture, absurdly attractive locals, endlessly photogenic streets and piazzas, fantastic food — without the tourist crowds. And while Bologna doesn’t have nearly as many artistic treasures as Florence, it does have a better culinary scene.

Because of this, as a solo traveler, I’d be able to “pass” as a local much more easily in Bologna.  And that is the ultimate achievement.

Bologna, Italy: the Sexy, the Delicious, the Untouristed.

Visiting Bologna

If you’re traveling through Italy by train, there’s a good chance that you’ll pass through Bologna at some point. Bologna is located in the triangle between Milan, Florence and Venice, and many major trains pass right through.  Beyond that, the airport is small but connected to all over Europe, and budget airlines will give you holiday deals at a low price.

Bologna is closest to Florence — it’s just a 90-minute train ride.  So if you’re visiting Tuscany, leave the tourist traps behind and come to Bologna to see a real northern Italian city that caters solely to its stunning locals.

Many thanks to Emilia-Romagna Tourism and Wilde PR for hosting me on the Delicious Emilia-Romagna Blog Trip.  All opinions, as always, are my own.

The Joys and Challenges of Traveling with a Project

The Joys and Challenges of Traveling with a Project

Traveling on the SOTM tour has been an incredible experience so far. I’ve never done a trip like this before — doing a project and taking it around the world.

Sure, you could consider this site a project, but doing Someone Once Told Me has been so different.  Everywhere Mario and I go, we ask people to share something that someone once told them, then we photograph them with the quote and get them to tell their story.

Mario has had a new photo on his site each day for more than five years with more than 2,100 people telling their stories so far.  It has taken an enormous, exhausting effort for him to keep finding people so that there continues to be a new story featured every day.

But the reward is outstanding. Doing Someone Once Told Me means that you are constantly meeting people and hearing endless fascinating stories.  And I understand why he keeps going.

The goal is to get 1000 photos before Mario returns to London in mid-May 2014.  That works out to roughly 21 per week.  You can’t get that many without a lot of planning, so we’ve been careful with how we’ve done it so far.

The Joys and Challenges of Traveling with a Project

Part One: Paris, Friends, and Expats

Paris was a perfect first destination because we love the city, we’ve each been there several times, and we have so many friends there.  On this trip, our friends introduced us to their friends.

Edna was amazing in Paris — she introduced us to lots of her expat friends living in Paris, planned a picnic , and took us to events.

Our friend Marie-Claire not only put us up in her apartment for five nights, but also took us to her book group, where Mario got SOTM photos from her friends, who came from all over the world.

Mario also searched for the top expat bloggers in Paris and set up individual photo sessions with them while I went to Chartres and explored on my own.

We got 21 photos during our five days in Paris — a brilliant start to the trip.  The only downside was that they were almost entirely from Paris expats or visitors, not Parisians.

The Joys and Challenges of Traveling with a Project

Part Two: Geneva and Meetups

Geneva, as you may recall, was a challenge from the start .  I knew one person in town — Leyla from Women on the Road — and I didn’t have high hopes for getting more pictures than just hers.

This is where we tried out two methods: meetups and impromptu pictures.

We planned two meetups: one during the day in front of Geneva’s famous Flower Clock, and one in the evening at a wine bar.  We publicized them as events on Couchsurfing’s Geneva page, as well as mentioning them in Mario’s interview on World Radio Switzerland.

When we went to the clock, Mario wrote “Can I take your photo please? :-)” on a sign.  I think it helped that I was standing next to him, holding tiny Berlin Bear.

And while it worked — we got five photos from curious onlookers that way — none of them were actually from Geneva.  We were standing at a landmark that people go to photograph and then leave.  Genevans have no reason to go there.  (We also learned the hard way that future meetup locations need to offer shade and seating.)

We got 10 photos total in our day in Geneva.  Of those, four people lived in the Geneva area, but only one of them was Swiss.

But one of the photos was a real find — is was a quote from our Italian subject’s grandmother in a rare dialect of German that is only spoken in a few villages in northern Italy and has no official spelling.  Wow!

The Joys and Challenges of Traveling with a Project

Part Three: Bologna, Emilia-Romagna, and Finding Characters

Before our arrival, Nick from Blogville Emilia-Romagna planned out some fascinating people to photograph: Aldo Simoncini, the goalkeeper of San Marino’s national football team, and Fabio Lamborghini, nephew of Feruccio Lamborghini, creator of the cars.

Along the way, we met crazy and interesting personalities, as you always do in Italy.  Whenever we met someone who looked like they had a story — a passionate owner of a winery, a chef covered in tattoos — Mario would ask him or her for a picture, most of the time with Nick translating.

This was different. While we were gunning for as many photos as possible in Paris and Geneva, Emilia-Romagna was more relaxed.  This was about quality rather than quantity.  And as a result, these photos were fantastic — some of the best ones we’ve had so far.

We leave Bologna tomorrow after a week in the Red City, and we’ve taken 10 photos here so far.

The Joys and Challenges of Traveling with a Project

The Challenge

The biggest challenge so far has been to get area natives. English-speaking expats are easy; local locals are hard.  The ones that we got in Italy were outstanding, but a big part of that was having Nick’s connections and translation skills.

And this is Italy.  How do you think it’s going to go in China?!

In the future we plan to find more locals by visiting universities (Chiang Mai is one university city we’ll definitely be hitting up), and possibly visiting our friends who are ESL teachers (like Heather in Yeosu, Korea; Chris in Nanjing, China; and Oneika in Hong Kong).

If it gets tough to get enough pictures, the US, our final country, will even things out.  Americans have always been the core of Mario’s audience, and with our road trip across the country, I have the feeling we’ll get more photos in the US than every other country put together.

This has been new, exciting, different and challenging. But it has been interesting and I feel like I’ve connected with more people than I ever had on my travels so far.  Mario has built a brilliant project, and I’m happy that we have been able to join forces and do this all over the world!

Many thanks to Blogville Emilia-Romagna and Eurail.com for their support of the European leg of the SOTM Tour .  All opinions, as always, are my own.