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I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Shortly after arriving in Spain for the first time back in March, I swiftly declared it one of my favorite food countries (along with Italy, Vietnam, Thailand, and France).  Spanish food is simple and delicious.

But in Costa Brava, the food really outdid itself.  You had everything that makes Spanish food great, along with plenty of surprises.

Here are some of my favorite things I ate in Costa Brava:

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Jamon iberico

Jamon iberico (Iberian ham) may be my favorite food in the world — it’s a special, expensive kind of Spanish ham made from acorn-fed pigs, deliciously mottled and flavorful.  I live for cured meats, and this is the very best of them.  You can occasionally get it outside Spain, but it’s so expensive that I usually turn it down.

That said, jamon iberico is much more affordable at the source, and there was tons of jamon iberico at TBEX.  On the first night, at the party at the castle, there was an actual HAM ROOM.  In that room was the hardest working man in Costa Brava, diligently shaving away at a giant leg of jamon iberico all night.

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Dylan and I camped out there all night, barely leaving to go to the Cheese Room or the Cocktail Den, and we each ate about half a pound.  It was that good.

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Fried Calamari

Fried calamari?  That staple of Italian-American restaurants that barely appears in Italy itself?

Well, I was surprised at just how often fried calamari appeared on the menu — that and it was the lightest, most delicate fried calamari I had ever tasted!  It was so fresh that I could eat this stuff like popcorn.  And I did.

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Prawns With the Heads On

Not too bad.

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Crudite-palooza

We were spoiled rotten in Costa Brava.  Everywhere we went seemed to have a plate of crudites greeting us on arrival.  A few of my favorite toppings: smoked salmon, caper and lemon; duck pate and fig; brie, kiwi and strawberry.

If you book a hotel in Costa Brava , chances are you’ll have some of these waiting for you!

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Paella

I know — paella is a traditional Valencian dish.  But despite its place of invention, paella was all over Costa Brava — especially when presented with shellfish.

This is one of the best ways to take advantage of Costa Brava’s fresh seafood.

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Salsafi

Before arriving in Costa Brava, I hadn’t heard of this unusual vegetable.  It tastes somewhat like a mild turnip and is indigenous to the region.

And it can be eaten in SO many ways.  At Restaurant Grions in Sant Feliu de Buixalleau, we had a three-course tasting menu featuring salsafi in every way possible — pureed into desserts, roasted on the side, even in jams and jellies!

But the best dish of them all was the appetizer:

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Mashed salsafi topped with truffle oil and a soft poached egg, finished off with a few grains of salt.  I would gladly eat that every day for the rest of my life.

Now, let’s move on to the desserts!

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Crema Catalana

Crema Catalana is one of the most popular Catalonian desserts there is (and keep in mind that Costa Brava is part of Catalonia).  It’s essentially creme brulee, but with more egg yolks, served flat on a plate.

I Ate Everything in Costa Brava

Figs in Cream and Cinnamon

One of the nicest desserts was also one of the simplest ones — and this is where I think Costa Brava particularly excels.  The ingredients are so delicious that they don’t need to be dressed up.

This was simply figs in cream with cinnamon, served at Restaurant Pont Vell in Besalù.  Absolutely lovely.

What would YOU like to eat the most in Costa Brava?

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

Picture it: Lloret de Mar, Catalonia.  2012. A young girl stands in a blue tank top and hopes her flimsy strapless bathing suit top will withstand the vigors of a hike along the Costa Brava coast.

Well, um, except that young girl was me, and that top, a magenta bandeau that I found for $12 at H&M and immediately deemed a steal, was clearly not made for the purposes of hiking.  Frugality has its drawbacks.

I dressed for swimming.  Sea kayaking was the excursion originally scheduled for this morning, but high waves have prevented an outing for a group of travel bloggers whose collective kayaking experience would be described as dubious at best, laughable at worst.  (There goes my training for my hypothetical future trip to Antarctica, I think with a grimace.)

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

No, kayaking is off the table today — but it’s a perfect morning for Nordic Walking along the coastal path that covers Lloret de Mar.

We are to be led by two Scandinavian men clad in body-hugging spandex from head to toe, ski poles firmly in their hands.  Their names, uttered in a lightning-fast and unfamiliar cadence, escape me.  I privately dub them Sven and Sven, and we set off.

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

Lloret de Mar has a bit of a strange identity.  You’ll find high-end tourists here, spending their days lounging by the infinity pool and dining on spicy spider crab and rice in beachfront restaurants.

But more common are the Brits on cheap package holidays, jumping overzealously into the only real sunshine they’ll see this year.  24 hours in, they end up curled up in the fetal position, sunburned and hungover, beneath a beach umbrella.

That part?  Not so attractive. But once you get beyond the beachfront with the cheap package motels and kebab stands, you’ll find a coastal path that is unfathomably gorgeous.

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

The path is free to hike, and various hiking routes continue all the way up and down the Costa Brava coast.  It’s easy — rather than struggling alone dirt paths cut with tree routes, this is a well-maintained tiled route.  The only hard part?  Lots of staircases.

And it is all very much worth it.  Climbing this path feels like strolling through an ancient Mediterranean village, set precariously upon the sea.

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

Fifteen minutes in, Sven and Sven have vanished from the pack, and are likely doing squats and lunges over the ocean’s edge by now, toasting each other with Aquavit. It’s the usual conundrum of a blog trip.  Local tour leaders aren’t briefed on the nature of travel bloggers — that we photograph everything in sight, even edit photos on our phones, and update constantly with Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook.  We take much longer than usual tours.

Most guides are good-natured about it.  A few become cross.

But how could you look at a view like that and not want to photograph every last inch of it?

The Crashing Coast of Lloret de Mar

Finally, we make it to the greatest viewpoint of all.  Standing on the overlook, watching the waves crash over those jagged rocks as the early morning sunshine swept over the coastline, I drink in the image before me.  This is the Mediterranean at its very best.

What vanished faster, I wonder?

Sven and Sven, the Scandinavian fitness junkies?  A platter of jamon iberico in front of me on any given day?

Or any doubts that Costa Brava was one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen?

Many thanks to Visit Costa Brava and TBEX for hosting me in Lloret de Mar.  All opinions, as always, are my own.